Panama Canal 2022 Trip Report P8
After getting on the mini van, we meet our driver and tour guide and we went on our way to the LA POPA hill.
They shared the story of the place, including some very interesting myths and tales about the place.
Like claiming that a Christian ordained had someone "guide him" to the hill where he found some Africans performing a dark and foul ritual with a gold goat.
He channelled god and expelled the devil and threw the effigy down one of the sides of the mountain and built a small convent next.
Then a much larger one next.
The convent itself also was under siege once with a small gun battery on top of it for a few.
And the famous tale of a random cannon ball from the Castillo of San Felipe almost hit the famous figure of Simon Bolivar.
One thing for sure is that on the convent, the view is breathtaking of almost 360 degrees.
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Note the City is like Miami, with a very large skyline full of tall towers.
And turns out that the order that built the place returned a century ago after they were expelled by "communists".
There was also a time where the convent was falling in disrepair due to abandonment and the subsequent invasion of random people who claimed the place as "theirs". They of course were expelled and the place was restored and had renovations to restore what it was.
Including saving the frescos and some art.
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Different popes visited the place when it was restored. Also that they dismantled the old gold coated retable and moved it to the convent.
And that there are special holidays where groups visitors moving huge figures from the bottom to the top to "visit" the area and praise religiously as they go up with dances and chants.
Not my photo:
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The view also showcases the division of population inside Cartagena, where certain areas are very posh and full of luxury apartment buildings.
Other side is so poor that no building taller than 2 floors have been built. Where you can see Shakira's "pies descalsos" foundation building.
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Next we got down to visit the Castillo de San Felipe, where it was packed with people.
Apparently its unusual to have 4 cruise ships at same time while there were a few large conventions downtown.
Not to mention tons of salesmen.
Anyway, the tour operator got our tickets and onwards we went.
Interestingly about this fort is.. Its "empty" side (aka the one with no fortifications) was facing the old casco viejo (the old wallet city). And its strong side faced the La Popa.
Aka it was designed to defend attacks from land, while smaller forts defend the bay against sea attacks.
And this design means that if the fort was taken, it would be blown with dynamite stored underground. And if that didn't happen... it could be very difficult to be held since they would be pelted from the city's cannons from the uncovered area.
There was an story where a spanish captain who lacked one leg, one eye and one hand, defeated a monstrously large British fleet with more than 100 ships in an heroic siege lasting months.
And how the fort was only taken once.. before disease and illnesses drove them out.
The fort was very well designed, with specified ports to allow birds to live, so in case someone tried to climb.. the birds would get spook and fly, alerting the guards.
And also multiple walkways with short tunnels to force tall soldiers (from England, Holland, etc..) to bend down and make them very vulnerable to melee weapons.
They even had a fake small wall that covered a small zone, which when climbled would lead the enemy forces into an ambush with firearms and canon fire from top on a near walls.
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Also, like all forts, they took centuries to be built.
With sections built next to the other with some clever designs.
For example. Cartagena has not many water sources nearby, so they built the fort with holes and special inclinations to move the water towards some giant reservoirs.
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The fort was built mostly with coral material mixed with other stuff, like bricks. Coral is extremely strong. While almost everything looks like it had some damage of time. The coral looks still there.
Also the mountain side area had holes to let water sweep out of it, if not.. thanks to the high rains, the mountain could literally explode.
pushing the tocks and coral outside for the pressure of the water.
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Here is a photo of the oldest part of the fort. That was built first.
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After this, we went down to get back to the van and head downtown. Which was a nightmare as it only had a few roads of single traffic lanes and everything is super narrow.
Continued in Part 10.