We would have preferred more time to explore Yu Garden even then, but the group’s schedule meant it was time to move on. Next we took a quick metro transfer to the French Quarter, which historically had been a legally-mandated enclave for French expats and colonialists. Today it is a boutique brand neighborhood, a series of European alleyways under the shade of Chinese elms. There is a Gucci, a Zara, a Wolfgang Puck, heaps of luxury spas, and westerners aplenty.
This is easily the least Asian thing I’ve seen in China. Anna compared it directly to areas she knows all too well in London. The French Quarter simply wasn’t interesting from our group’s shared perspective as cultural tourists.
A short distance away, passing through immaculately maintained contemporary parks, we reached the People’s Square. This is Shanghai’s equivalent to Tiananmen Square, and the contrast couldn’t be more stark. People’s Square feels like a city park filled with lawns and old growth elms. It is soothing, not a chaotic miasma of shrieking tour groups.
We sat for a while and simply watched the birds play. Monumental symbols still dot the Square, from the Guggenheim-esque Shanghai Museum to a statue of communist revolutionaries presently under repair, but none overpowered the edenic calm with their propaganda.
At the distant end of People’s Square we found the mouth to Nanjing Road (sp?). This is Shanghai’s Times Square redone as a pedestrian shopping street. A wide boulevard flanked by blinking neon ads, populated by major global brands, all stretching in a straight line down the rows of skyscrapers back towards the Bund.
Our walking tour thus far has been incredibly taxing in this humidity. I was sweaty and chafing. The older group members all opted to take the nearby metro back to the hostel for a breather. The younger group decided to continue down Nanjing Street back towards the Bund, people watching along the way. The sun would be setting soon, thankfully, and the Bund’s skyline would soon transform into the world’s largest light show.
The six of us who continued down Nanjing separated amongst the teeming crowds and train-shaped trams. I held back with Corina, a Swiss native, who is traveling with her boyfriend Permin. This Chinese trip is simply the first leg of a year-long vacation they’ve just begun! They have a very rough itinerary, one which is still evolving. I discussed these plans with Corina, offering her advice for Hong Kong and further afield. Starting today (now that the group has separated), they’ll be slowly traveling south through China into Vietnam, then eventually to Australia. They’ll be revisiting the group’s Australian members there, and once May comes around they’ll likely be paying me a visit once they finally reach Los Angeles.
We reached Nanjing’s terminus at the Bund while the sun was setting. It still wasn’t dark enough for the highrises to truly shine - and the river overlook was ludicrously crowded besides - so we all took a well-deserved break in a nearby cafe for a few beers. For all the crowds outside, this place was shockingly empty (the Chinese don’t much do bars), making it all the more refreshing to just chat as a group while enjoying cheap pints of Tsingtao.
Eventually we exited and beheld the glowing, animated skyline. The masses hadn’t dispersed - they never will for decades into the foreseeable future - but this just added to the city’s electric pulse.
With more rest, Shanghai’s nightlife might have beckoned us further. As it was, having walked 10 miles for practically the sixth consecutive day, we just chose to return via metro to our hostel. There we vegged out for a while longer in the lounge, cooling under palm frond fans and sipping more gigantic cheap Chinese beers. I turned in around 11, which was actually later than most everyone else even though I’d still wake up first in the morning.
This is easily the least Asian thing I’ve seen in China. Anna compared it directly to areas she knows all too well in London. The French Quarter simply wasn’t interesting from our group’s shared perspective as cultural tourists.
A short distance away, passing through immaculately maintained contemporary parks, we reached the People’s Square. This is Shanghai’s equivalent to Tiananmen Square, and the contrast couldn’t be more stark. People’s Square feels like a city park filled with lawns and old growth elms. It is soothing, not a chaotic miasma of shrieking tour groups.
We sat for a while and simply watched the birds play. Monumental symbols still dot the Square, from the Guggenheim-esque Shanghai Museum to a statue of communist revolutionaries presently under repair, but none overpowered the edenic calm with their propaganda.
At the distant end of People’s Square we found the mouth to Nanjing Road (sp?). This is Shanghai’s Times Square redone as a pedestrian shopping street. A wide boulevard flanked by blinking neon ads, populated by major global brands, all stretching in a straight line down the rows of skyscrapers back towards the Bund.
Our walking tour thus far has been incredibly taxing in this humidity. I was sweaty and chafing. The older group members all opted to take the nearby metro back to the hostel for a breather. The younger group decided to continue down Nanjing Street back towards the Bund, people watching along the way. The sun would be setting soon, thankfully, and the Bund’s skyline would soon transform into the world’s largest light show.
The six of us who continued down Nanjing separated amongst the teeming crowds and train-shaped trams. I held back with Corina, a Swiss native, who is traveling with her boyfriend Permin. This Chinese trip is simply the first leg of a year-long vacation they’ve just begun! They have a very rough itinerary, one which is still evolving. I discussed these plans with Corina, offering her advice for Hong Kong and further afield. Starting today (now that the group has separated), they’ll be slowly traveling south through China into Vietnam, then eventually to Australia. They’ll be revisiting the group’s Australian members there, and once May comes around they’ll likely be paying me a visit once they finally reach Los Angeles.
We reached Nanjing’s terminus at the Bund while the sun was setting. It still wasn’t dark enough for the highrises to truly shine - and the river overlook was ludicrously crowded besides - so we all took a well-deserved break in a nearby cafe for a few beers. For all the crowds outside, this place was shockingly empty (the Chinese don’t much do bars), making it all the more refreshing to just chat as a group while enjoying cheap pints of Tsingtao.
Eventually we exited and beheld the glowing, animated skyline. The masses hadn’t dispersed - they never will for decades into the foreseeable future - but this just added to the city’s electric pulse.
With more rest, Shanghai’s nightlife might have beckoned us further. As it was, having walked 10 miles for practically the sixth consecutive day, we just chose to return via metro to our hostel. There we vegged out for a while longer in the lounge, cooling under palm frond fans and sipping more gigantic cheap Chinese beers. I turned in around 11, which was actually later than most everyone else even though I’d still wake up first in the morning.