KeeKee
Well-Known Member
It wasn't a good kind of high...exactly...So you miss that developer/fixer high? LOL
It wasn't a good kind of high...exactly...So you miss that developer/fixer high? LOL
The Noiseware that you are referring to is it software from Imagenomic? I have only heard of it, never used it. When I need to use that type of thing, I use what comes with Photoshop. I rarely use it, though, because it can make the image appear "soft" if overdone. In thousands (yes, thousands!) of images, I have only used it a half dozen times at the most. I wouldn't recommend that you spend your money on it. You would be much better off applying that money to Photoshop or Photoshop Elements.I'm sorry, I meant noiseware. Do you ever use it KeeKee?
Depending on what make camera you have, P can mean different things. If it means Programmed, then, yes, you can leave your ISO on automatic. I think you can leave it on automatic in most modes anyway.Can I leave it on automatic in manual modes, like P?
I've wanted full blown photoshop but I've heard there's a steep learning curve. Did you find that to be true?
It wasn't a good kind of high...exactly...
That's true, but Photoshop has some really nice methods of converting color to B&W with PSCS3 that were previously unavailable that make it almost a distant memory...Yeah but there was this look that Illford paper,, D-76 and a #2 contrast filter just gave the world of black and white.....
That's true, but Photoshop has some really nice methods of converting color to B&W with PSCS3 that were previously unavailable that make it almost a distant memory...
In PSCS3 under Image, Adjustments, there is a Black and White conversion adjustment that lets you adjust reds, yellows, greens, cyans, blues, and magentas, as well as run presets that simulate filters that in the past you would have had to physically attach to the camera i.e. blue, green, red, neutral density, high contrast blue, as well as infrared and some others.SO what do you do on that conversion? I just flip it to lab and then delete the B channel and then the other channel thats left.
You lose 2 stops with a polarizer, so keep that in mind.
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