Taking Pictures of Moving Objects at Night

WDWFigment

WDWFigment

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
So I know this might get moved to the digital photography advice forum (a death sentence as no one reads that forum...look at the last reply dates). But I have a question. Here is an example of a picture I would like to take while at WDW:

IMG_3262.JPG


So, how is this done? I don't have manual settings (several "best shot" options, if that helps) but I do have a tripod. I'm just a little confused as to how I might be able to get this picture, since it's night time and the float is moving. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
 
Master Yoda

Master Yoda

Pro Star Wars geek.
Premium Member
Not an expert by any means but I am going to say flash and a pretty robust one at that. If you look in the mirror at the base of the stand that Mickey is on you can see its reflection.
 
Number_6

Number_6

Well-Known Member
Well first off, what kind of camera do you have? That will help people that are going to advise you as to what capabilities it does have because they can look up the specs for it.
 
WDWFigment

WDWFigment

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
I have both a Canon SD-1000 and a Casio Exilim EX-Z60. Thanks!

The Canon generally takes better pictures.
 
Number_6

Number_6

Well-Known Member
I checked the Digital Photography threads and someone had posted a link to an article on how to photograph fireworks, which would really be the ultimate in moving objects at night: http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/how-to-photograph-fireworks/

I would say that the methods they mention there, should be able to be applied to the question you have, at least part of the way. It will probably at least give you some idea of what you want to do, though.
 
WDWFREAK53

WDWFREAK53

Well-Known Member
WDWFigment said:
So I know this might get moved to the digital photography advice forum (a death sentence as no one reads that forum...look at the last reply dates). But I have a question. Here is an example of a picture I would like to take while at WDW:

IMG_3262.JPG


So, how is this done?
Click to expand...


Simple.

While you're in WDW...hook up your computer...log onto this site. Find the picture...right mouse click on it...Save As...save to your desktop.

There...THAT is how you take that picture while in WDW.

:D

(Yes, I know...I'm a @$$hat :) )
 
wdwmagic

wdwmagic

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
You need a lens/camera that is capable of capturing a lot of light. In a nutshell to do that you need a really fast lens, and a camera that can use high ISO without too much noise. Do you have access to an SLR? For Spectro, Flash is out, because that will show up parts of the floats that you dont want to appear in your photos. You want to capture available light, and not add to it with your own lighting.
 
WDWFigment

WDWFigment

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
WDWFREAK53 said:
Simple.

While you're in WDW...hook up your computer...log onto this site. Find the picture...right mouse click on it...Save As...save to your desktop.

There...THAT is how you take that picture while in WDW.

:D

(Yes, I know...I'm a @$$hat :) )
Click to expand...

:lol: That probably is the most simple response I will get.

wdwmagic said:
You need a lens/camera that is capable of capturing a lot of light. In a nutshell to do that you need a really fast lens, and a camera that can use high ISO without too much noise. Do you have access to an SLR? For Spectro, Flash is out, because that will show up parts of the floats that you dont want to appear in your photos. You want to capture available light, and not add to it with your own lighting.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I don't have an SLR. My camera has some manual settings, so I might try using a high ISO, which doesn't usually produce too much noise, and quick shutter, but I don't know if I'll have too much success. I guess I will just try different combinations while there. I should have a couple chances to watch Spectromagic!
 
wdwmagic

wdwmagic

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
WDWFigment said:
:lol: That probably is the most simple response I will get.



Unfortunately, I don't have an SLR. My camera has some manual settings, so I might try using a high ISO, which doesn't usually produce too much noise, and quick shutter, but I don't know if I'll have too much success. I guess I will just try different combinations while there. I should have a couple chances to watch Spectromagic!
Click to expand...

It's in the more extreme light conditions where an SLR really comes through. With a fast lens, and a fairly high ISO, you would probably be able to photograph Spectro with a fast enough shutter speed to avoid motion blur.

Most compacts dont have a fast enough lens to let you get enough of a shutter speed to avoid the blur without using flash (even when using a high ISO).

Best bet is just to take lots, and see what happens. Good luck and have a great trip! Let us know how you get on.
 
Deadmanwalking

Deadmanwalking

Member
I would disagree with the poster that said a flash wasn't the asnwer.

Some of the floats in Spectro work well with a flash (most of the character floats...) the magic is only really tossed out the window when you shoot the little fish floats and the balls the spectro men are sitting on. When you shoot those with a flash you see all the wiring and it doesn't look very good.

I go decent result using a nikon d50... no fancy flash just the pop up flash on the camera.

Now high ISO noise was a bit of an issue and I don't think I could make big poster size blow ups but 5x7s don't show too much noise.
 
PhotoDave219

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
wdwmagic said:
You need a lens/camera that is capable of capturing a lot of light. In a nutshell to do that you need a really fast lens, and a camera that can use high ISO without too much noise. Do you have access to an SLR? For Spectro, Flash is out, because that will show up parts of the floats that you dont want to appear in your photos. You want to capture available light, and not add to it with your own lighting.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily.... But odds are your average point and shoot flash will completely screw it up on Automatic modes.

Somewhere i have a shot from spectro of Mickey and the castle, take in front of the christmas shop. used a 50/1.8, ISO 800, at 2.8 and 1/20th of a second. Flash used just bright enough (1/16th?) to completely "stop" the action and not blow out the face of the character.

However, to get that shot with a point and shoot? I'd have to give that some thought. First thing is that you want to shoot the float as its traveling into a well lit area. Probably have it on manual mode at 1/10th of a second, and if you can adjust the flash power (my little canon P&S can) back that down a bit.

But your right Steve, an on camera flash will just hit everything in front of you, as shown by the picture in question.

Professionally? If i was working for Yellow Shoes, i'd strobe with an off camera flash.
 
Gorjus

Gorjus

Well-Known Member
Number_6 said:
I checked the Digital Photography threads and someone had posted a link to an article on how to photograph fireworks, which would really be the ultimate in moving objects at night: http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/how-to-photograph-fireworks/

I would say that the methods they mention there, should be able to be applied to the question you have, at least part of the way. It will probably at least give you some idea of what you want to do, though.
Click to expand...


No, you don't want the fireworks setting. The point of the fireworks setting is to actually capture some movement. For the float, you don't want any movement.

Here is the perfect solution. Go on a rainy night and wait at the point on Main St where the bridge connects Main St. with the hub. When the float can't make it up the hill and has to stop and wait for a tow, have your camera on a tripod and shoot away...oh wait, Mickey is still moving even if the float isn't.:lol:

Seriously, you need to find a camera setting where the lens is open longer than usual, but not so long as to get a blur. Try higher ISO numbers and night scene setting. You might even try night portrait setting as well.
 
PhotoDave219

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
Gorjus said:
Here is the perfect solution. Go on a rainy night and wait at the point on Main St where the bridge connects Main St. with the hub. When the float can't make it up the hill and has to stop and wait for a tow, have your camera on a tripod and shoot away...oh wait, Mickey is still moving even if the float isn't.:lol:
Click to expand...

Just go for the simple solution whydontcha :lol:

Seriously tho, if you stand in front of the Christmas Shoppe or Sleepy Hollow and turn towards the hub, you can get a good shot of them comming over the bridge very slowly. Combine that with a 50/1.8 lens, ISO 800 and you should be set.

BTW.... does anyone need an 85mm paperweight? I dropped mine yesterday....
 
WDWFigment

WDWFigment

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
PhotoDave219 said:
Just go for the simple solution whydontcha :lol:

Seriously tho, if you stand in front of the Christmas Shoppe or Sleepy Hollow and turn towards the hub, you can get a good shot of them comming over the bridge very slowly. Combine that with a 50/1.8 lens, ISO 800 and you should be set.

BTW.... does anyone need an 85mm paperweight? I dropped mine yesterday....
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help, everyone. Dave and Gorjus, you've given me advice about pictures multiple times over the past few months, and I hope I can "reward" you guys with some halfway-decent shots (showcasing the knowledge I've gained here) when I return from my trip on August 22nd!

As for the 85mm paperweight... I can only imagine how much $ that is for someone like you... ya know, a real photographer!
 
PhotoDave219

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
Just as long as you enjoy taking pictures and its rewarding to you, thats all the thanks i would need.

And the lens? Probably about a $300 dollar repair. :puke:
 
WDWFigment

WDWFigment

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
I just purchased a DSLR (Nikon D40), so I guess it's time to revive this thread for some settings advice.

PhotoDave, your settings sound good, although I'm wondering if I could bump the ISO up to 1600 (I think the D40 functions pretty decently at 1600) and retain the rest of the settings you suggested for better results? Also, I'm not quite sure about how to use the flash at 1/16th, but I assume that's available with an external flash, and due to space constraints, all I'll have is the on camera flash. I have the ability to set the flash compensation low, which I plan on doing, but I'm still not sure how low to go (there are settings from -3.0 to +3.0; I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of -2.3? Guess I'll have to test it out).

Thanks for all your guys' help last summer.
 

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