6,500 Miles With the Crazies - A National Parks Road Trip Extravaganza

HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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While we were stopped at Soda Butte, I also photographed these birds against the hazy mountains in the background. I've had several people look at the pics and come to the same conclusion...Sandhill Cranes.

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Speaking of birds, I forgot to mention, but we saw several big nests when we were driving into the area the previous day. They were all in that area along Hebgen and Earthquake Lake. I never got any pictures, but all kinds of Osprey in that area. I saw several standing in the nests...so I recall feeling a bit ahead of the game with birds before ever hitting the park. Although, that would fade (and improve) as this day wore on. More on that later.

It was tempting to drive farther towards the northeast, but everyone was starting to get hungry. So, we sat at Soda Butte to discuss our lunch plans. Who doesn't? Ha! I guess maybe it's an omen that we had to drive through Mammoth earlier on, because we realized we didn't want to fight for picnic space and recalled that we really don't love the food at the deli. It was unanimous...we were going to look for lunch in Gardiner.

On our way back, I just captured more random things along the way...

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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...as well as Phantom Lake. I think it's been dry for our last two visits, but I know we saw it filled with water in 2005...at least I think we did!

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We also saw more of the herd on our way back into Mammoth.

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Not sure what it is, but I've always loved the drive to the north entrance.

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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And we're in Gardiner...

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I was trying to find lunch for us as we approached Gardiner...since I had service again. Everyone was getting hangry and nobody was in agreement. I wound up mapping us to a BBQ place, but we saw something that looked more interesting along the way...and just happened to find great parking too.

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I took a few pics and some video and then we went inside to eat.



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I loved the vibe. My only complaint was all of the dead gnats in the window. The food was at least really good. They made this huckleberry habanero sauce that was amazing.

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Took more pics on the way out, including the old jail!

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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We then headed back into the park. We didn't have time for a full exploration, but David wanted to do some of the highlights of Mammoth and I agreed, as long as it was the upper terrace area. During lunch, we also planned out the rest of everyone else's wish list. It's ambitious, but the plan was to drive to Canyon after Mammoth, then head through Hayden Valley, make a quick pop into Lake, and end the day in the Old Faithful area. We made a few stops on the way back in...just little stuff as well as some of the obligatory pics going back in (even if other people were in my pics)...

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(funny how changing position and zoom ever so slightly makes it look empty)

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And of course, I wanted some pics of these girls as well as the magpie that surprised the heck out of me. I just love them.

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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Now on to the terraces...

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So, we drove back up to the area with the upper terraces in Mammoth and started looking for a parking spot. I couldn't help but chuckle as we drove in. Last time we were in this area, a brown rodent ran out in front of me. It was probably a marmot, but it went too quickly for me to know for sure. I asked a ranger, who's reply was "Was his belly yellow?" I mean, I get it...yellow bellied marmot, but he ran in front of me. When would I have gone over, violated any number of wildlife policies to turn him over and confirm whether or not he had a yellow belly? Just the whole thing makes me laugh. Oh well, no rodents crossing my path today. This is one of those areas where people like to make their own parking spots, even though there's plenty of parking. I'm sure walking that extra 30 seconds wouldn't kill them. Now what could...that space they created. There are signs EVERYWHERE that there's a lot of unstable earth around you and put weight on the wrong area and you could end up going through the crust into some channels of the hot springs.

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So, I found parking...nearly died walking that extra 30 seconds from that slightly more distant spot (kidding, of course)...and headed out into the boardwalk area for the upper terraces. It was really warm, I still had on some heavier layers for the cooler morning, and I was still pretty full from lunch. Needless to say, my body didn't want to move...and boy was I cranky. I sent everyone on ahead of me and made my own pace. I tried to also focus on some detail pics and video this time...since this is another one of those spots that looks like you're on a different planet.

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HouCuseChickie

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One of the kids had the hydration pack for a bit, so I periodically had to catch up to them for that. David wanted them to carry my backpack, but I recall not wanting to hand it off.

I hadn't been planning on a full scale tour of Mammoth, so maybe that's also why I was being cranky. Don't get me wrong...it's a neat area, but we saw a lot of it last time. So, David set how far he wanted to go...and then we walked back. Also, once again...no mountain bluebirds. This area was lousy with them when we were here in 2005. Oh well, it was time to move on. I actually got a little bit of the falls on the way out of Mammoth...

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I have no real memories of driving to Canyon...at least, not until we got there. It makes me think I must have taken a nap shortly after driving out of the Mammoth area. I was still on those heavy power naps in the car. I do know that I routed us to the brink of the lower falls, but unfortunately, it took us to the brink of the upper falls. Still pretty neat, but I was running out of patience for running around and finding stuff.



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We were right there, so I figured we'd just go to Artist Point and be done with it. We did find another family that clearly enjoys the alphabet game.

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I will say this...the news keeps talking about the overcrowding at the national parks and people in my parks groups kept talking about how crowded it's been at YNP. Maybe we were just hitting places at all the right times, but I really don't know what the heck they are talking about. The crowds we saw walking the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic were a fraction of what we saw in 2018. Some of the lower areas of Mammoth, where we had to fight for parking in 2018 were wide open. And this...in 2018...I think we had to make three loops around the lot at Artist Point. This time...there was all kinds of parking. It would even be a similar story at Old Faithful later on. And unlike Glacier, Yellowstone wasn't doing anything to limit guests from entering the park. So, if anything, not having the foreign travelers made it far less crowded than our previous peak of summer visit.

The haze and smoke was having an impact on the view, but I took what I could. At least I could still pick up some decent colors from the closer portions of the canyon.



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*Those people off to the right got to the brink I was hoping to get to...especially since those are some of my lost pics from 2005.

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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After Canyon, we drove through Hayden Valley...didn't see any reason to stop...but there were still several bison here and there and elk off in the distance. Surprisingly, I didn't take a single picture! We also drove right by the Mud Volcano area. After David got sick here last trip, I worry about tummy issues. We then made our way over to Lake...and I had to slow down to take a few pics of this mule deer having a snack.

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I can't recall why we were stopping at the store, but we went to the store in Lake to get something. I even wore the glasses I bought at this store in 2018...just for the heck of it.

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A few photos and vid as we breezed through this area.



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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
On the way to our next stop...we ended up in an animal jam. My gut said elk and my gut was right. I was content to keep driving, but David wanted to double check. It's always kind of funny when I hand a camera off to him. I really never know what I'm going to get.

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Also a quick pic from the Continental Divide...

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Then it was on to Old Faithful. Kendall insisted on going in because this is where she wanted to buy her souvenir. I was good with that. Unfortunately, we missed the visitor center hours and had just missed an eruption. David tends to be overly optimistic with his estimations and memory for certain things and swore we wouldn't have to wait more than 30-45 minutes for another. Rather than tell him he's wrong, I just let him walk by the prediction clock and see that he was off. So, here's a bunch of randomness both in and outside the Inn...



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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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David was trying to get recruited to the staff so he could go up into the tree house.

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One of the only places where three bars means nothing!

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We were at least a good hour from the next eruption, so we just walked around a bit, hung out a bit, noticed that they were still serving meals in their dining room, etc. Oh, and K bought some shirts.

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As we were leaving, I made the comment that this has been the only trip to Yellowstone where we hadn't seen a bald eagle. David pointed out that we only spent 1.5 days in the park, so I can't expect much from that. He at least drove on the way out so I could take good-bye pics...sort of like I do at Disney. I was also secretly hoping for a good animal sighting on the way out...kind of like the Kiss Goodnight at Disney.

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After turning at the Madison Junction and driving for a bit, we got into an animal jam. David insisted it was for another bison and we should keep driving at a slow pace to safely get around. The thing is...we were right alongside the river...and we've seen bald eagles before in this area...both flying and perched in trees. Kind of like I had to with the bear...I firmly instructed him to stop and that it didn't feel like just another bison or elk. It would later occur to me that everyone was looking up, and maybe that's the cue I was recognizing...without even really realizing it. You don't look up for bison or elk. You look up for tree climbing animals and birds...and there was my bald eagle.

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It flew down to try and catch something in the river. I was too busy watching to photograph the action, but of course, David yelled out the window if I caught that. No...no, I didn't. I was enjoying the moment...the moment we would have missed if the decision were on him. Ultimately, I really was having a moment. No, seeing eagles isn't rare, but it's also not as common as seeing ravens either. Not to mention that I'd just been talking about no eagles and thinking about something like this. So, I guess the park was giving me my kiss good-bye after all...in the form of a raptor. LOL

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
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And it wasn't long before we were outside of the park.

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Dinner was on everyone's minds. Nobody was hungry just yet, but David wanted a plan. They gave us some $10 off per person coupons when we checked in for some restaurant tied to the hotel/motel. The menu looked decent and it was walking distance. So, we decided on that. In the meantime, the kids played volleyball outside of the room and managed to get the volleyball up on the roof. Nope...we were not getting it down.

As I expected, dinner was a really easy walk and we were promptly seated in an area with cute table trees.

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The food was OK...not awful, not amazing. My wild game sliders were dry, but the poutine wasn't bad. Our server also gave us some perspective on what it's like in the winter...doing all kinds of crazy things to keep the roof from caving in from all of the snow, the tons (literally) of snow that gets moved to form a massive sledding area, and how everything shifts to snow mobiles in the winter because it's even too much for winter equipped cars.

On our way out, we went through the gift shop. I wasn't able to get him when he was talking, but this bison was funny and freaky all at once...and kind of reminded me of the Country Bear Jamboree!



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We went back...packed up (me, while masked)...and got ready to hit the road the next day. Oh, I also took some pics of the room. I'll spare you the gross bathroom and the dirty mirror pics, but I also think we figured out why it's called the Grand Prismatic room.

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Now, if only there were some grass for me to keep off!

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Side note- it feels kind of funny that I'm only at Yellowstone. We're at the halfway point in the trip, yet it feels so much longer and there's still so much more ahead of us! In real life, Yellowstone feel like it flew and was done in the blink of an eye. For the TR, I'm having to hold back pictures because at some point, it's truly overkill. LOL

Coming up...Our last "new" state of the trip, the Smithsonian Channel made me do it, educating the Texans, a big transition from the woods, and the vegan trick.
 

HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
I moved from Colorado in 1984, so I would have missed this one. I grew up in the Rockies so I'm definitely aware that fires serve a purpose and have seen many parts of the forests that are blackened become green again. The beetle kill that's been happening for many years has turned so many areas into timber that lights so easily that I'm hoping for regrowth there. And I agree about the news, we generally heard about any disaster from our neighbor who was a volunteer fireman/EMT.

Yes, I remember seeing and hearing about the beetles when we were in RMNP back in 2019. I know the fires that hit CO last summer were likely worse due to the beetles and their impact on the forests, but I can only hope that some of what occurred will help. Growing up, we rarely heard about anything outside of our area. Granted, it was a large area, but it had to be big for us to see anything that wasn't involving NJ, NY or CT. Nowadays, people see everything in far greater quantities.
 

HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
Oh my -- those interior shots of the hotel. ❤️ I can see how Wilderness Lodge at WDW was influenced in its design, by this hotel. :happy:

The OFI took my breath away the first time I saw it (which is saying something, because it was undergoing renovations and there were a lot of blue tarps in the mix) and it still wows on each subsequent visit. It's definitely a lot darker than WL at WDW, but you can feel how it played a heavy inspirational role in the design of WL. I know other western lodges also supposedly had roles in the design and I know WL's fireplace is inspired by the Grand Canyon, but there's a lot of Yellowstone love at WL. Although, I wish the OFI had someplace to sit in the lobby, like you find at WL. 😂
 

HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
July 25th

We got up early, I turned in the keys to the front desk, grabbed some huckleberry cocoa for the road and headed west. I can't remember how long we were on the road when Kendall realized she was missing her headphone (at least a good 30 minutes away), but the office wasn't open yet (dropped the keys in a lockbox) and I'd lost all patience with her and these things.

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If you read my Disney TR back in February, you may recall that she lost her good set of earbuds at the BWVs. A couple of months later, in my quest to find long battery life ones for road trips, I offered her a cheap pair that I had in exchange for a house cleaning. She happily obliged, but on our way back from a softball tournament in College Station, she lost those too. She had the case...but no earbuds. She blamed me any which way she could, but again... this was on her. Our yard guy wound up finding one of them while he was blowing off the driveway later that week. So, she started charging that one and using the singular bud. A few weeks later, the second one turned up in the driveway...but it had been run over and wouldn't work/charge. Well, she left the case with the single working earbud back in the room...somewhere. I wasn't going back for a single earbud nor was I paying to have it shipped home if they found it. I actually got a call from them saying they found it, but we were a good 75 miles away by that point. So, I told them to trash it and didn't mention it going forward.

We had discussed going to Craters of the Moon National Monument, but by the time this day arrived...nobody cared. So, we skipped it. I was fine with that, but I refused to let them skip my other must-do for the day. I'm not sure how many of you have ever watched Aerial America on the Smithsonian Channel, but ever since I saw the episode on Idaho, I decided I had to see Shoshone Falls. They are dubbed the Niagara of the West, and even in slower flow seasons, they looked SPECTACULAR. Plus, it would add another state to our list of states we've visited. So, we headed into Idaho!

I was doing the driving, so there are no pictures until we were out and about at the falls. It's really quite amazing, we drove over a massive ravine with cliffs that went straight down, but if it weren't for that, you'd never know there was anything in the area like this. It just looks like flat farmland with mountains housing ski resorts off in the distance. We literally drove through small farms and then a bit of suburbia for the final leg of the drive. I will say, there were some pretty spectacular homes with views of the falls, but most of the neighborhoods just looked...normal. So, we paid our entry, drove through a small switchback with water pouring through various crevices in the rocks... and were greeted with this...

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The rainbow I'd heard about was also out in full force. I don't really have a bunch to say about the falls other than they were everything I had hoped they'd be and was quite happy we'd made the drive. So, here are a whole bunch of waterfall pictures...as well as the areas surrounding the falls. And if the falls sound familiar, Evel Knievel tried to jump the gorge in 1974.

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HouCuseChickie

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Original Poster
I had Kendall take some pics on the way out, so that we had memories of the water pouring from the rocks on the way in and out...

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Probably a bit of overkill with all of the pictures, but I've wanted to visit as soon as this came onto my radar. Now it was time to find lunch...and deodorant. LOL Sam lost hers and was afraid we might have to kick her out of the car if she started stinking up the place, so I found a supermarket and then it was time for lunch. David found some place, but it looked pretty sketchy. We decided to turn around and stop at a place that appeared to be very popular with the locals. Nothing fancy, but it looks like the Sunday buffet going on was big with the after-church crowd. I can't remember what everyone ordered, but I got a pot pie.

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We also had a very interesting server. She pegged Sam as a redhead and got into a whole story about her daughter. She also wouldn't allow any phones at the table because meal time is family time. I know some would be put off by this, but she just wanted it to be family time. When she learned we weren't local, she also insisted on teaching us a few things. She brought out the kids a few kinds of Idaho fry sauces and gave us a verbal tutorial on farms in the area...and learning the difference in the leaves of sugar beets, potatoes and a few other things. All in all, it made for a really memorable meal.

After lunch, we retraced some of our driving steps...so to speak...and started heading towards Salt Lake City. At some point, I started getting really groggy. We stopped at a rest stop with a number of Native Americans selling crafts...after that, we hopped back in the car, David took over driving, and I was out like a light until shortly before we arrived at our hotel. Speaking of hotels...when planning, I decided we'd need a break from more rustic motels and basic chains. I just wasn't planning on how I'd feel arriving at a really elegant place looking like I just climbed out of the woods. I was very clear with the girl at the front desk that I didn't want a bellman and that I wanted the girls to handle the luggage and "earn their keep." I know I didn't take any pics until we got into the room, but as David went off to park the vehicle in the garage, we walked off with our brass luggage cart and a lovely velvety key case with RFID metal keys. Honestly, it was so nice, I wasn't sure I wanted to leave. The girl at the front desk suggested I take some time in their world class spa...and maybe if we were staying longer...but I was perfectly content with the lovely room bathroom for a while. It's really rare for me to have a room where I want to use the tub.

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Oh yea...the current weather...SMOKE!

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Everyone wanted to explore a bit, so we freshened up and headed downstairs...

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*the fancy RFID doors.

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HouCuseChickie

Well-Known Member
Original Poster


We had discussed dinner, as it was getting late. There was a funky little neighborhood near the hotel and I'd seen a few interesting things in there. So, we headed out...

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I found a place that got great reviews and the menu looked interesting. It also appeared to be about a 5 minute walk.

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The place was called Mark of the Beastro and it was a vegan eatery. I thought it might be a welcome changed, but it really messed with my tummy and I don't think anybody liked what we got. I was so bad, I had to buy some stomach meds for our drive the next day.

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*The ONLY soda option!

We had debated about just eating at one of the spots in the hotel, but we'd felt a bit too casual. We wouldn't make that mistake again in the morning. Now time to walk back to the hotel.

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*If we were staying longer, this would have been our main way to get around the city.

David and the kids hit the fitness center and I relaxed in that glorious tub...and then sleep. We had a long day coming up and I was really worried about weather. The areas we were driving had recently had flash flood issues and continued to be a concern due to an overactive monsoon season. There was also a bad accident that day involving a dust storm. It was something like 21 vehicles and 8 deaths...and we'd be driving that path the next day.


Coming up...an unexpected road scare, Capitol Reef National Park, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, and our arrival in Bryce.
 

Songbird76

Well-Known Member
I found this map that might help...

View attachment 582904

I wonder if you guys could take a Divide and Conquer approach. One of you could go with E while the other go with A on the longer hike. David and Kendall weren't up for it when we were there in 2018 and really just stuck with the Old Faithful loop. When Sam and I walked it, we took the one path to Castle Geyser and then cut over with that walkway leading to Grand Geyser, and then walked back to Morning Glory. The two paths converge at Grotto Geyser, which is probably my favorite looking one of the bunch. I also really like the scenery in the area where you cross over the Firehole River just before getting to Morning Glory. If you keep going beyond Morning Glory, you will wind up on that trail section we did in 2005 that took us to the other side of Biscuit Basin. In hindsight, while our elk herd encounter makes for an interesting story to this day, the couple of pools and little geyser after Morning Glory aren't very exciting.

That seems like an awfully subjective driving test...to the point of sounding unfair. Maybe that's a very American mindset, but it seems to lack uniformity...like someone else might go out driving on an easy day and you wind up with crazy stuff. It sounds like you know what you're doing, so it may just be a matter of persistence with getting tested so you can get licensed. I can't imagine how many drivers would be sidelined if testing were like that in the US.
Yeah, we've used the divide and conquer approach at Disney. That's what makes my husband grumpy. He sees the family vacations as that....FAMILY vacations. We should all stick together. He forgets that people like different things, and if everyone is forced to do the things they don't like to do, they are making it miserable for the people who DO want to do them, and then NO ONE has fun. This is, I think, why he dislikes Disney. He had a GREAT time on our honeymoon there, but I think now that we have a special needs child, he resents having to curb what he wants to do. He started off with the "No, I don't need to ride that....we can't all do that together, so let's go find something we can ALL do." but then after doing that time after time, giving up all the favorites so we didn't have to split up, he realized that was no fun. So then he agreed to split up and take turns...so he gets an afternoon to go by himself and do all the thrill rides I can't do, but then when it's his turn to take A so that E and I can go do OUR stuff, he resents "not getting to have fun" because he's stuck doing the things he doesn't like as much. Then he forgets about that whole day he had to himself the day before, or the fact that I was just with A all morning and I didn't get to do my stuff either. He had spent the entire day from right after breakfast until dinner on his own one day and I had the kids with me. After dinner, E and I wanted to ride Soarin', but A wanted to go back to the resort. A doesn't like soarin' and doesn't like waiting. I didn't figure it would kill him to wait for us to do one ride, but my husband said he'd go ahead and take him back to the resort so E and I could do Soarin'. Then he says "You can respond in like kind at a later time." What do you mean, like-kind? You just spent the WHOLE day by yourself and you think I'm going to owe you more time because you sacrificed time to let me ride ONE RIDE?? He just completely forgot that he had spent an entire day doing everything he wanted to do and ONLY what he wanted to do while -I- didn't get to do my favorites. Then he's thinking "I'm so nice to let them go ride that one ride....now they owe me some time to go do my thing tomorrow!"

I think some of the walking paths at Yellowstone will be fine, but we can't spend all day walking to various pools and such, because A will get bored of it and will complain that his legs hurt. We'll have to balance between driving through and walking to particular viewing points, and he'll be fine. I don't think the divide and conquer approach will be doable because there's no place for A to wait while we go do something. And even if there is someplace for him to wait, he'll be bored with the waiting. I'm hoping that he'll be invested enough in the scenery and animals that he'll be engaged and not mind the lack of electronic entertainment. And honestly, it's good for him to have to make some sacrifices himself. I don't want him to think that our vacations (or anything else) revolve around him and we can only do things if HE says so. He needs to learn to go with the flow a little bit more. I know it's harder for him than it is for us, but it's ok to ask him to do hard things, too....we do hard things all the time for his benefit. He HAS to learn to take turns getting to choose things, and to let others have their fun, too. And he did really well with that on our last Disney trip. He's learning, if we give him the opportunity and explain why it's important. My husband just needs to learn that it's ok if not everyone loves every second...we can all have different favorites and things we didn't enjoy as much. That's ok.

The driving test is DEFINITELY meant to keep the number of drivers lower. Driving is not incentivised here. From really expensive gas prices to narrow roads, lack of parking, and difficult and EXPENSIVE driving lessons/exams....it's designed so that not everyone will get a license. A lot of it is luck....it depends on the driving conditions on the day of your test and what situations you encounter. It's not just a matter of knowing the laws and using proper driving procedures. It's how well you evaluate the traffic situation and how well you handle the car, including shifting, checking mirrors, etc. Like, they are watching you to make sure that you are looking in the rearview mirror before you brake, or before you pull up after a light. If you don't check your mirror as you do those things, it counts against you. Most people do not pass the driving test the first time. And the written is designed to be hard, too....most people I know took it 3 times before passing. I passed the written on the first try, but have more problems with the actual driving. You can't really STUDY for that...you can only practice, and you can only do that during lessons, which cost 50 euros per hour. So to get the shifting to the point that it is second nature, it takes a lot of lessons when you are only doing that for an hour a week. Building that muscle memory takes time. If there were a way to practice without paying for a lesson, it would be better, but that's illegal here. There's no such thing as a learners permit so you can practice.
 

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