Saving Money On My Power Bill

Woody13

New Member
Original Poster
As many of you know that have read the hurricane preparation thread, I have been busy with my preparations for the next "big one". Living in hurricane country, I have always been prepared with the basic items such as hurricane shutters, food, water, medicine, and the other necessities. We've always survived rather well.

However, after hurricane Dennis last year, it was hotter than hell both day and at night. We spent 6 days in that miserable heat. I vowed after that storm that I would get a generator and a couple of small window A/C units so we could at least sleep at night.

As I mentioned in the other thread, I bought all these items (and the gasoline to run the generator for a week) and I have tested all the equipment to make sure it will work when I need it. I decided to leave one of the window A/C units permanently mounted in the master bedroom. My wife enjoys sleeping in a deep freeze at night.

So, I cranked down the thermostat on the window A/C (an 8,000 BTU unit) to 66º F. That little A/C puts out a lot of cold air. However, I was concerned that my power bill would be much higher because I did not change the thermostat on my central A/C unit (30,000 BTU's). With both units running together, I naturally assumed I would be using more kilowatt hours.

Also, our cooling degree days during the month of June in 2005 were much lower than June, 2006. In other words, it's been unseasonably hot where I live. Without taking into consideration the cooling degree days, a comparison of power usage from one year to the next is meaningless. I got my power bill today for the month of June. I was almost afraid to look at it because I thought it was going to set a record. Well, it did set a record. A low record!

In June, 2005 I used 2,056 kWh of electricity and in June, 2006 I used 1,945 kWh. The biggest power hog in my house is the central A/C unit. I am coming to the conclusion that the little window A/C is providing enough cool air to keep the central A/C from cycling on as often as it normally would.

The month of July will be the real test, because that is most power hungry month for our house. :wave:
 

TAC

New Member
That's cool, Woody!

I don't know the ins and outs of houses in Florida, and I don't know your house specifically, but there are other ways to try and cut your energy bills.

In my house, I have forced hot air (for heat). Those same ducts also circulate the cool A/C air. What I have done is to seal every accessible seam in the duct work (it's in the basement), and then insulate the duct work. I don't know how old your house is, but mine was built in the late 1970's, and of course the builder did not care about holes in the duct work or insulation.

I also sealed all the accessible returns. This creates (it's not perfect) a more or less, "closed system," where there is more air circulation between the ducts exhausting cool (or warm) air into the rooms, and pulling warm (or cold) air into the returns.

This has resulted in a consumtion reduction of 50% of the amount of oil that I burn in the winter. We've been in the house for four years, and our first winter, we burned a little over 1,000 gallons of oil. Last year (Fall 2005 to Spring 2006), we burned a little over 500 gallons of oil. With the price of oil at about $2.75/gallon, and possible projections of over $3.00 this winter for the Northeast, that amounts to a significant savings.

Anyway, again, good luck! :wave:
 

Woody13

New Member
Original Poster
My house is all electric and I too have a central forced air system for both the A/C and heat (same ducts). The ducts are all in the attic and are well insulated. You and I are obviously on the same page because I make annual trips to the attic (during the cool months) and check the ducts to make sure they are sealed.

I run the furnace fan and then go up in the attic with a smoke pencil and a half gallon of air duct sealant (mastic). I use the smoke pencil to detect any leaks and the mastic to seal them. I find small leaks once in awhile, normally at seams. My house too was built in the mid 1970's. Our lowest electric bills are always in January, February and March. We don't use much heat down here in Florida.

Of course June, July, August and September are the high electric power months due to the need for A/C. Years ago I came home from work one day in the middle of July. It was super hot and all I wanted to do was get home and have a cold drink. When I got home and opened the front door, it was like a blast furnace inside my house! The central A/C unit broke.

I called the repair guy I use, but he couldn't show up until the next day! We were miserable in that house until we got the central A/C fixed the next day. That's another reason why I decided to permanently mount and use the small window A/C. It's a good backup system in case the central unit fails. However, I never thought it would save me money too!

Oh, and just to prove how much of a hurricane preparation geek I am, I'll tell you about my window A/C installation. Every project I work on around the house starts with the thought, "Will this survive a sustained wind of 155 MPH with flying debris missiles?" If the answer is no, then I beef it up. The peace of mind means a lot to me.

I armor plated the outside of that window A/C unit. First thing were those wimpy accordion expanders they use so the window A/C unit will fit a wide range of window widths. They are flimsy and they are not insulated. Heck a small gust of wind could damage them. So, I cut some heavy duty aluminum plates (black finish) for each side and mounted them on the outside of the accordion expanders with heavy duty silicone adhesive sealant.

I left a small gap in the sealant on the top on each side and let the sealant cure over night. The next day I pumped expanding foam insulation into the gaps I had left and let it cure. Then I put the last dab of silicone sealant on each gap. Now the window frame and the A/C unit are strong enough to handle any hurricane force winds! I also modified my hurricane shutter for that window to accommodate the A/C unit. :wave:
 

DisneyPhD

Well-Known Member
That's interesting info. Are the kWh that you reported for the same number of days for both months? I know my bills (electric and gas) can vary one or two days from one year to the next depending on when the meter reader comes. I'm an energy geek with a spreadsheet going back to 1999 (when we first moved into our house) comparing kWh per day. It's been amazing to watch as we use less and less energy but pay more and more for it.

BTW, I love the armor plated AC description!
 

TAC

New Member
Woody13 said:
My house is all electric and I too have a central forced air system for both the A/C and heat (same ducts). The ducts are all in the attic and are well insulated. You and I are obviously on the same page because I make annual trips to the attic (during the cool months) and check the ducts to make sure they are sealed.

I run the furnace fan and then go up in the attic with a smoke pencil and a half gallon of air duct sealant (mastic). I use the smoke pencil to detect any leaks and the mastic to seal them. I find small leaks once in awhile, normally at seams. My house too was built in the mid 1970's. Our lowest electric bills are always in January, February and March. We don't use much heat down here in Florida.

...

Oh, and just to prove how much of a hurricane preparation geek I am, I'll tell you about my window A/C installation. Every project I work on around the house starts with the thought, "Will this survive a sustained wind of 155 MPH with flying debris missiles?" If the answer is no, then I beef it up. The peace of mind means a lot to me.

I armor plated the outside of that window A/C unit. First thing were those wimpy accordion expanders they use so the window A/C unit will fit a wide range of window widths. They are flimsy and they are not insulated. Heck a small gust of wind could damage them. So, I cut some heavy duty aluminum plates (black finish) for each side and mounted them on the outside of the accordion expanders with heavy duty silicone adhesive sealant.

I left a small gap in the sealant on the top on each side and let the sealant cure over night. The next day I pumped expanding foam insulation into the gaps I had left and let it cure. Then I put the last dab of silicone sealant on each gap. Now the window frame and the A/C unit are strong enough to handle any hurricane force winds! I also modified my hurricane shutter for that window to accommodate the A/C unit. :wave:

Oh, I have no doubt Woody. Like I said before, if I am ever in Florida, and a have to shelter for a hurricane, I am coming to your house. :wave:

I'm curious where did you get the smoke pencil ? I used to use mastic, but like you, I found that it cracked. So now I just use silicon that comes in caulking tubes. IMO, the silicon still seals the duct, and is flexible enough to not crack.

What type of expanding foam insulation do you use? IE: the "red can" or the "blue/black can?" The red stuff is really nasty, and sticks to everything, and it expands way too much. I use the blue can stuff to "top off" the insulation behind openings in the exterior sheathing. The blue stuff is latex based, so it also washes off easily.

One time I was using the red can stuff, and did not realize it sticks to everything. Not only did I ruin a T shirt, but I tried gasoline, mineral spirits, and terpentine to get it off my hands. Then I read the can and it said the stuff "wears off" your skin. UGH. I had to rub my hands together to get the stuff off. Needless to say, I was ed, and I threw the can in the trash.

:wave:
 

Woody13

New Member
Original Poster
DisneyPhD said:
That's interesting info. Are the kWh that you reported for the same number of days for both months? I know my bills (electric and gas) can vary one or two days from one year to the next depending on when the meter reader comes. I'm an energy geek with a spreadsheet going back to 1999 (when we first moved into our house) comparing kWh per day. It's been amazing to watch as we use less and less energy but pay more and more for it.

BTW, I love the armor plated AC description!



Hi DisneyPhD! :wave: Yes, the reported kWh's are based upon the same number of days. More importantly, I also made the computation based upon cooling degree days as well. You really can't tell if your heating and cooling costs from one year to the next are high or low without computing the cooling or heating degree days.

A cooling degree day is a unit used to relate the day's temperature to the energy demands of air conditioning. Cooling degree days are calculated by subtracting 65 from a day's average temperature. For example, if the day's high is 90°F and the day's low is 70°F, the day's average is 80°F. Eighty minus 65 is 15 cooling degree days. Cooling degree days can be used to compare the current summer to past summers. It can also be used to compare the heat in one part of the country with another.

The National Weather Service (NWS) maintains a national database with heating and cooling degree days for all parts of the country. Obviously, if in June, 2005 you have very moderate temperatures and then in June, 2006 you have above normal temperatures, you must take all that into account (on a daily basis) when you compute your A/C expenses. Naturally, same thing is true for heating degree days.

Of course, here in Florida, we don't need much heat for most of the winter so the heater seldom comes on. However, when the heater does come on, it is then time for me to crank up my Aladdin kerosene mantle lantern. That thing puts out 2,000 BTU of heat plus it puts out as much light as a 60 watt light bulb. Most people think that kerosene lamps are dirty and smelly (and the kind you buy at Wal-Mart are dirty and smelly). The Aladdin mantle lamp burns very hot and very clean. No nasty smells at all. I always keep two gallons of K1 kerosene in stock to power that lamp.

Today the lamp was not needed. The high temperature here today was 98ºF and the NWS is predicting another busy hurricane season. When you're in your home and a major hurricane is slamming your house with 130+ MPH winds, even atheists begin to pray for divine help. My house is a fortress and I'm still doing a little bit every day to make it stronger!

After Ivan, Dennis, Katrina and Rita a lot of my friends moved away from the Gulf Coast due to the fear of another major storm hitting this area. I was strongly urged and tempted to join them. After seeing first hand much of the terrible devastation (not just physical, but psychological) I damn near packed up and left with the others. I'm getting too old for this sort of stuff.

But then, I thought of the Merry Minuet:

They're rioting in Africa. They're starving in Spain.
There's hurricanes in Florida and Texas needs rain.

The whole world is festering with unhappy souls.
The French hate the Germans. The Germans hate the Poles.
Italians hate Yugoslavs. South Africans hate the Dutch
And I don't like anybody very much!

But we can be tranquil and thankful and proud
For man's been endowed with a mushroom shaped cloud.

And we know for certain that some lovely day
Someone will set the spark off, and we will all be blown away.

They're rioting in Africa. There's strife in Iran.
What nature doesn't do to us will be done by our fellow man.


So, why move? :lol:



TAC said:
Oh, I have no doubt Woody. Like I said before, if I am ever in Florida, and a have to shelter for a hurricane, I am coming to your house. :wave:

I'm curious where did you get the smoke pencil ? I used to use mastic, but like you, I found that it cracked. So now I just use silicon that comes in caulking tubes. IMO, the silicon still seals the duct, and is flexible enough to not crack.

What type of expanding foam insulation do you use? IE: the "red can" or the "blue/black can?" The red stuff is really nasty, and sticks to everything, and it expands way too much. I use the blue can stuff to "top off" the insulation behind openings in the exterior sheathing. The blue stuff is latex based, so it also washes off easily.

One time I was using the red can stuff, and did not realize it sticks to everything. Not only did I ruin a T shirt, but I tried gasoline, mineral spirits, and terpentine to get it off my hands. Then I read the can and it said the stuff "wears off" your skin. UGH. I had to rub my hands together to get the stuff off. Needless to say, I was ed, and I threw the can in the trash.

:wave:




Hi TAC! :wave: I got the smoke pencil at Home Depot and it's made by a company called Regin (actually, they call it a smoke pen). It works very well for testing air leaks in ducts, around windows and doors, vents, plumbing, smoke detectors, etc.

The mastic that I use is Master Flow Air Duct Sealant. It's made by RCD Corporation in Eustis, FL and is sold by all the Home Depot stores around here. This stuff does not crack in my experience. It's a water based latex formula and is very tough yet flexible. Of course, we seldom get a hard freeze down here in Florida so I can't say how well this stuff would work in your part of the world when winter arrives.

Naturally, in Florida we have to worry about the heat, humidity and resistance to UV sunlight.

"For skin and solid surfaces, cured foam must be mechanically removed or allowed to wear off in time." Indeed, I use the red can stuff. I made the mistake once of trying to smooth a wet foam edge with a wet finger (as with caulk). I'll never do that again! But the stickiness of the red can stuff is something I like.

You can use it on vertical surfaces and it will stick (and not drip) and then expand to fill the opening. I admit that you have to be very careful with the stuff because it does have a huge expansion rate. I always leave a good sized gap for excess foam to escape so it doesn't damage the fill area. After it cures, you just cut away the excess with a knife. However, I have seen a few people damage their window frames because they didn't leave a good exit route for the expanding foam. :eek:
 

DisneyPhD

Well-Known Member
I figured you'd have all the bases covered. I go to the NWS website for our area and get the average monthly temp just as a rough comparison. Of course their dates are for the month while my gas bills are offset by a week or so. The gas company now has it so you can go in and compare data from last year (or last month) to the current month and it will explain why they're charging so much more. Somehow they manage to blame most of it on mother nature and not that they've raised rates 100% in the last two years. They use the degree heating days in their analysis too.
Do you have your main thermostat programmed to shut off at night so you're just using the window unit?
 

Woody13

New Member
Original Poster
DisneyPhD said:
I figured you'd have all the bases covered. I go to the NWS website for our area and get the average monthly temp just as a rough comparison. Of course their dates are for the month while my gas bills are offset by a week or so. The gas company now has it so you can go in and compare data from last year (or last month) to the current month and it will explain why they're charging so much more. Somehow they manage to blame most of it on mother nature and not that they've raised rates 100% in the last two years. They use the degree heating days in their analysis too.
Do you have your main thermostat programmed to shut off at night so you're just using the window unit?
Oh yeah, I know all about utility companies raising their rates. We have to pay the power company a monthly surcharge for the extra money they had to spend to repair the power lines after Ivan, Dennis and Katrina. The funny thing is that they are the only company getting that extra money for recovery. The telephone company, the water company and the cable company all had extensive damage to repair as well. Their rates didn't go up not do they get a special surcharge. To wit:

"The Florida Public Service Commission (PSC) voted on Tuesday to approve a settlement agreement in Gulf Power Company’s (Gulf) storm recovery financing petition.
The settlement provides for the continuation of Gulf’s current hurricane recovery surcharge through June 2009. For residential customers using 1,000 kWh, the charge is $2.57. The extension will allow Gulf to replenish its storm reserve and recoup its storm recovery costs associated with Hurricanes Ivan, Dennis, and Katrina."
Of course, no one will complain. Heck, after a big storm and your power has been off for a week (or more) you'd pay twice the price to get your power back on. When the power trucks show up in your neighborhood after a storm, the workers are treated like royalty (I fed them meals and provided ice cold drinks). :slurp:

I have the thermostat programmed (during the cooling season) to jump up 2ºF at night. I can't shut down the central unit because I have another family member in a separate bedroom. Without A/C, sleeping in Florida at night is considered cruel and unusual punishment. :D

Speaking of A/C, my daughter just called me and advised that she thought her water heater was leaking. I went down to her house (it's only 2 blocks away) and found that her central A/C drain line was clogged. The A/C unit is in the same closet with the water heater so she didn't know from where the water was coming. Water had overflowed from the A/C drain pan onto the floor and around the water heater.

I went outside and found the point where the drain line exited the house and back-flushed it with a garden hose. A big glob of brown slime came out of the drain line. :eek: That stopped the water leak. I then went back to my house and got her a package of A/C drain pan tablets (to prevent drain line sludge and slime) and showed her how to use them every month. My good deed is done for today! :lol: :wave:
 

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