night time photographs

SIMONRTAYLOR

SIMONRTAYLOR

Member
Original Poster
hi

I have visited a few times now, but on return back home am always disapointed with my night photography around the parks, and of the stage shows,firework etc..

Everytime i retuirn i get fed up of my camera and buy a new one for my next trip.

Can anyone give me any help in gettign some better shots of -

The parks at night,castle, tree, hat, SSe

Wishes, iluminations, fantasmic

Also this time when i vist in november i will be going to halloween and xmas party, how ill i be able to get some great shots at these parties in the dark?

thanks for your help
 
Z

ZuzuPetals

Member
Night shots can be tricky. The key is to turn OFF your flash and find a flat, level place to set your camera. This can be an inexpensive, compact tripod (my choice) or even something like the top of a trashcan. If your camera has a self-timer, that can be a GREAT help to minimize blur.

Turn off the flash, set the 10 second timer, push the button and you'll be amazed at how much better your photos turn out! The key is to keep the camera as stable as possible, as photos at night with no flash will be blurry with any movement. I've even used this method for fireworks and while it is a bit trickier to time, it has given me some great shots. My little point-and-shoot camera also has a button that allows me to take a quick series of shots in a row, that also comes in handy. Good luck! :wave:

Edit to add: an example from my very basic Canon powershot, compact tripod and self timer (with no flash.)
It won't allow me to do HTML for some reason, so here's a link: http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v345/135/36/67100248/n67100248_30583146_5691.jpg
 
Rob562

Rob562

Well-Known Member
Check your camera's manual to see if it has a Long-Term exposure setting. Then fool around with it to see what the best settings are. (Experimentation with a new camera BEFORE your trip is always a good idea to learn the little features and functions of it)


My little compact Kodak camera can keep the shutter open as long as 4 seconds, or as short as 0.5 seconds. What I do is set it up on a stable surface (been meaning to get a mini tripod), but trashcans with a park map under it to angle it upward if needed works just.

Set the self-timer, set the button, and leave it sit without touching it while it takes the photo. (Newer models of my camera have a 2-second timer for just this purpose, so that you're not standing there for a full 10 seconds waiting for it to start taking the photo)

Once I'm home, I may have to fiddle with the photo a little bit on the computer, but I've gotten some pretty decent shots with my little camera that's about the size of a deck of cards:

100_0535.jpg


100_5181.jpg


100_5199.jpg


Nov604102.jpg


-Rob
 
KeithVH

KeithVH

Well-Known Member
Simon, can you tell us what cameras you currently own? Do you plan on getting another one before your next trip? If so, which one?
 
SIMONRTAYLOR

SIMONRTAYLOR

Member
Original Poster
KeithVH said:
Simon, can you tell us what cameras you currently own? Do you plan on getting another one before your next trip? If so, which one?
Click to expand...


Hi
cheers for the tips so far - my camera is a Panasonic TZ5, that is the one i will be using this year, in November

I could also take my partners camera which is a Fuji S5800, if anyone thinks I may get better shots with this?
 
SIMONRTAYLOR

SIMONRTAYLOR

Member
Original Poster
Rob562 said:
Check your camera's manual to see if it has a Long-Term exposure setting. Then fool around with it to see what the best settings are. (Experimentation with a new camera BEFORE your trip is always a good idea to learn the little features and functions of it)


My little compact Kodak camera can keep the shutter open as long as 4 seconds, or as short as 0.5 seconds. What I do is set it up on a stable surface (been meaning to get a mini tripod), but trashcans with a park map under it to angle it upward if needed works just.

Set the self-timer, set the button, and leave it sit without touching it while it takes the photo. (Newer models of my camera have a 2-second timer for just this purpose, so that you're not standing there for a full 10 seconds waiting for it to start taking the photo)

Once I'm home, I may have to fiddle with the photo a little bit on the computer, but I've gotten some pretty decent shots with my little camera that's about the size of a deck of cards:

100_0535.jpg


100_5181.jpg


100_5199.jpg


Nov604102.jpg


-Rob
Click to expand...

Hi

Love the tree picture and the castle, Hope I can manage pictures like those
 
Rob562

Rob562

Well-Known Member
Disney Soldier said:
That tree photo is amazing!!! I don't recall seeing a night shot before.
Click to expand...

Animal Kingdom is gorgeous at night, and many people never get a chance to see it. There's lots of little accent lights that don't get a lot of use.
That Tree of Life photo was taken back in December '07. I specifically went to the park on a day with Evening EMH. That way I'd have a few hours of darkness to take photos, thanks to the early sunset of winter (the park's regular closing time was 5PM).

-Rob
 
KeithVH

KeithVH

Well-Known Member
I would stick with the TZ5 as newer technology is always a benefit (the S5800 is at least 1 year older). Plus it has a nice 28mm at the wide end. That's a good thing to have. And a better LCD than the Fuji.

Make sure:
  • You have the IS turned on
  • Don't shoot with auto-ASA, keep it at 400 or lower
  • Set Focus to Normal, don't use Continuous
  • AF Area Mode to 1-point or Spot
  • Image Setting to Natural
  • Turn off digital zoom
What you don't have control over is shutter or aperture. You may have to experiment a little with the settings. Scene modes will most likely override some of the above. You'll have to play a little for the best results.

There are two major probelms with the Pany's. Except for the newest ones, many models have noisy sensors. They are also somewhat heavyhanded with their in-camera processing. Those can kill an image quicker than poor operator technique, especially with night shots and longer exposures. You want to try and reduce those dependencies with lower ISO and Natural image. You may need to invest in noise reduction software. That can save a LOT of questionable images if you're into night shooting.

As was mentioned, review the manual a few times over the next few months. Don't try to cram it in all at once. Have the camera with you when you do this. Handling helps with memory in learning/changing/taking advantage of the various settings. The scene modes can be helpful. But, as also pointed out, a mini-tripod can be a lifesaver. Experiment in the evening outside around your house and be a little methodical about testing. Try only 1 or 2 setting changes at a time and then compare the results. You'll eventually find what works best for you.

You'll also want to think about what post-processing you do (or don't do). You haven't mentioned that but it's something you may want to also think about. Although PP won't fix some images. Can you describe or post sample shots of what you're not happy with?
 
SIMONRTAYLOR

SIMONRTAYLOR

Member
Original Poster
KeithVH said:
I would stick with the TZ5 as newer technology is always a benefit (the S5800 is at least 1 year older). Plus it has a nice 28mm at the wide end. That's a good thing to have. And a better LCD than the Fuji.


Make sure:
  • You have the IS turned on
  • Don't shoot with auto-ASA, keep it at 400 or lower
  • Set Focus to Normal, don't use Continuous
  • AF Area Mode to 1-point or Spot
  • Image Setting to Natural
  • Turn off digital zoom
What you don't have control over is shutter or aperture. You may have to experiment a little with the settings. Scene modes will most likely override some of the above. You'll have to play a little for the best results.

There are two major probelms with the Pany's. Except for the newest ones, many models have noisy sensors. They are also somewhat heavyhanded with their in-camera processing. Those can kill an image quicker than poor operator technique, especially with night shots and longer exposures. You want to try and reduce those dependencies with lower ISO and Natural image. You may need to invest in noise reduction software. That can save a LOT of questionable images if you're into night shooting.

As was mentioned, review the manual a few times over the next few months. Don't try to cram it in all at once. Have the camera with you when you do this. Handling helps with memory in learning/changing/taking advantage of the various settings. The scene modes can be helpful. But, as also pointed out, a mini-tripod can be a lifesaver. Experiment in the evening outside around your house and be a little methodical about testing. Try only 1 or 2 setting changes at a time and then compare the results. You'll eventually find what works best for you.

You'll also want to think about what post-processing you do (or don't do). You haven't mentioned that but it's something you may want to also think about. Although PP won't fix some images. Can you describe or post sample shots of what you're not happy with?
Click to expand...

Wow - thanks for all the information, i am not sure how to post a image on here to show you, but from last years visit, I seemed to get a lot of blurry pictures of the castle, and firewoks at night.

The pictures main problem with the pictures was being Blurred, and not very sharp.

The firework shots seemed to be hit and miss, some good and some very bad, again blurred around the castle with fireworks behind it.

The other show I have problems with normally is Fantasmic, i normally can not get very sharp pictures of the boat scene at the end, again tehy come out blurry, maybe this will help with the Tripod, but did not fancy carrying a tripod around at night, but as this will be first trip to WDW at the xmas, and halloween period I dont want to miss out on photographing the stage shows and parades.

I also seemed to egt dark pictures when Photographign Spectromagic.
 
SIMONRTAYLOR

SIMONRTAYLOR

Member
Original Poster
KeithVH said:
I would stick with the TZ5 as newer technology is always a benefit (the S5800 is at least 1 year older). Plus it has a nice 28mm at the wide end. That's a good thing to have. And a better LCD than the Fuji.


Make sure:
  • You have the IS turned on
  • Don't shoot with auto-ASA, keep it at 400 or lower
  • Set Focus to Normal, don't use Continuous
  • AF Area Mode to 1-point or Spot
  • Image Setting to Natural
  • Turn off digital zoom
Sorry to be a pain, maybe i am a bit of a novice, but coudl you explain what you mean by -

IS Turned on?
AF Area Mode?
Iamge setting to Normal?


Have you got one of these TZ5 Cameras?
Click to expand...
 

Register on WDWMAGIC. This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.

Back
Top Bottom