Need help with camera settings...

mousefan1972

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
Like a lot of people, I blamed my crappy night and indoor shots at Disney on my camera. Well, after mucho reading on this site over the past couple of hours, instead of going out and spending $700+ on a new SLR camera, I'd like to try to get better at using the point and shoot that I have. And, I need a little help. :lol:

I have a Sony Cybershot DSC-W150. It has very few manual modes and a lot of auto/scene modes. It also has image stabilization, which I had inadvertently turned OFF then entire time since I bought the camera in May. :hammer:

Just a few questions: My indoor pics look alot like this:



Obviously something isn't right. The camera has an ISO of 80-3200. Can you guys explain to me what that is and what it does?

And my night shots come out like this:

042-1.jpg



052.jpg


I know having the image stabilization on during the Boo to You parade would have helped. However I would really appreciate any tips and/or advice you guys who are much better at photography than I might have.

Thanks.
 

KeithVH

Well-Known Member
First of all, I have to ask if you've played with the Smile Shutter? Where it automatically takes a picture when a persons smiles. How cool. And, just so you know, for snapshots, there's nothing wrong with what you posted.

Anyway. The first picture is only ever so slightly over exposed. That's a flash issue that, in most cases, can probably be fixed in the computer. I'm not sure I see in the specs where you can dial down the flash. Maybe try out slow synch just in case. Also, maybe step away just a little further and use the zoom lens. P&S closeup flash is tricky.

If you HAVE to be close with flash, another thing try is place a kleenex over the flash to mute and disperse the beam. This is a real problem for almost all compacts (Nikon less so, they always seem to have better flash exposure algorithms). If you can set FEC - Flash Expsoure Compensation, dial it down by ~2/3 EV. That will definitely fix blown highlights.

In the night photos, yes, IS would have helped. But it is not a cure all. Technique is still important. Standing still, bracing your elbows against your rib cage is a good way to handhold for parade-type shots. Also try the High Sensitivity mode for night work. And read the manuals directions for Fireworks mode. The manufacturers seem to have differing recommendations on this mode so it's best to follow what they say if you lack manual settings.

Another note - if you use Program Auto, instead of just Auto, shutter times can be longer and can result in more blur. Auto only goes down to 1/4 sec. With practice you can get decent 4x6s handheld at night at that speed. Program can be up to 1 sec which is tough for anyone to keep steady.

Last thing - learn to turn on the histogram and learn to read it both before shooting and after. Take your time and go through this article. It will help you take better pics in the long run and diagnose problems that may arise in exposure so you can shoot again.

Last last thing - practice makes perfect. The more you play with and experiment using all the setting and then review results, the more comfortable you will feel when it comes time to shoot and you'll be more relzed with the wide variety of settings available to you and how they perform.
 

dolbyman

Well-Known Member
on fireworks long exposure works fine (tri-,monopod,IS) (makes the displays even more spactacular.. my opinion)

on parades .. this works not that great because .. you can hold still the parade floats won't .. so for parades you have to crank the iso up in order to get the exposure time down ... or buy some really heave machinery(x000$) so you can low iso nightshots :D
 

CAPTAIN HOOK

Well-Known Member
Obviously something isn't right. The camera has an ISO of 80-3200. Can you guys explain to me what that is and what it does?

In the old days cameras used to have 'film' put into them and when the film was exposed to the light a negative image was created - this negative became a photograph when the film was developed :rolleyes:

Films were developed so that they became more light sensetive and versatile and used for a variety of lighting situations - hence the ISO settings. A film with a higher ISO is more sensitive to light and can be used in low light situations - a warning here as the film became more grainy - or used to gain faster shutter speeds for action photography.

In digital terms they have the same settings - you can 'alter' the sensitivity but beware as the higher ISO settings reproduce 'noise' on the image.

A setting of no more than ISO 400 is quite adequate for day to day usage - generally 200 is spot on
 

mousefan1972

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
Thank you for the replies. I have done some reading and think I understand ISO. Just a couple of more questions, if you can bear with me....

I took a bunch of pictures at 1900 Park Fare, when one of the Stepsisters sat down at our table and colored with my daughter. They came out awful. :( I just saw on my camera that I have a setting I can use for flourescent light. Would that have helped? What else did I do wrong? I was sitting very close to them, and I'm pretty sure the camera was on auto mode.

085.jpg
 

wdwmagic

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I actually think that your photos taken with a point and shoot are pretty good. I dont see you getting much better out of what you have in those circumstances. Those compact cameras are all built around scene modes, so dont expect lots of manual control.
 

mousefan1972

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
I think it looks ok .. if unsure in tricky situations .. you could use raw and take care of white balance in post

I actually think that your photos taken with a point and shoot are pretty good. I dont see you getting much better out of what you have in those circumstances. Those compact cameras are all built around scene modes, so dont expect lots of manual control.

Well, crap. :lol:

Here I am, thinking it is me, but it sounds like you guys are saying that for a point and shoot, the pics are ok. So that means I have to go buy an SLR, right?

*goes to Best Buy*
 

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
... Before you go spending Thousands of dollars at Best Buy, decide exactly what you want to do. If you really just want to learn how to take decent pictures, spend $20 bucks on National Georgraphic's Field Guide to Photography. Probably the best basic, how-to book that explains everything easily.

Beyond that, the people who read these photo forums on here range from the casual tourists to the advanced amateurs to the professionals who do this every day of their lives. Which makes it difficult for myself to try and dispel advice without coming off as utterly condescending or confusing.

That being said, your fireworks photo is pretty good for a P&S. For fireworks,, all depends on the style you want, long exposure where the light streaks or not, like what you had above.

The parade shot is easily fixed. Choose a better locations. For most night parades (Not Spectro) there are generally spotlights aiming down on the parade route Stand near these and shoot when they get in the well of light.

THe Daisy M&G photo...... just bad composition. Get down on the child's level. Lots of dead space at the top. Exposure is actually pretty good on all the photos you've shown.

Not really sure what all advice i can give you on the technical aspects. Ive used Sony's Cybershots before and they take decent photos. (Its no Nikon D700 or Canon 5D but hey, it fits in your pocket)

What most people fail to realize is that spending thousands of dollars on a camera wont make their pictures better. Spending 20 dollars on a book and working on technique and learning how to use the camera they own and the simple, basic principles is a much worthwhile investment.

... I really gotta write that book..... :lol:
 

dolbyman

Well-Known Member
spend $20 bucks on National Georgraphic's Field Guide to Photography.

On the flight to CA last year I got pretty excited because on the photomagazine I bought , they included this on CD as ebook ... well .. a shame it was only part 1of8 (choosing the right Camera :veryconfu ) ...
 

KeithVH

Well-Known Member
One other thing that has only been vaguely mentioned - post processing.

Except in some rare cases, just about every shot from a P&S can benefit from even a little work in the computer. And actually moreso from a DSLR (like mine which is set for zero in-camera adjustments). Many cameras have setting which allow you to adjust saturation, contrast, sharpness, etc at the point the picture is taken. And many times these adjustments are very heavy-handed and do more damage than good, especially sharpening.

No, you don't need to spend a fortune and time becoming a Photoshop expert. If you want to spend money, I suggest you trial PaintShopPro (~$50 street). For 95% of all activity, it'll be as good as PS. For cheap (free), try GIMP. Free tutorials all over the web on them.

This is not to say you have to post EVERY shot. But you can do bulk processing of certain variables like contrast and saturation. And you'd be suprised how easy, with a little practice, it is to save a marginal photo (maybe exposure of sharpness). Can't really help with composition in most cases but even cropping and resizing can sometimes make a difference.
 

mousefan1972

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
So, I'm pretty sure I'm buying a Canon EOS Rebel XSi. Or a Nikon D60. Can't decide. Any advice?

DH and I have been talking a lot about it, and we both are committed to learning how to use the camera properly and really getting into amateur photography. I've always had an interest, and dropping $700 is really good motivation for furthering that interest.... :lol: Thanks for all the help and feedback, guys.
 

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
I'd endorse going with either the latest Canon or Nikon product. Nikon seems better in lower light on their high end stuff, havent touched the prosumor stuff.
 

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
I guess my point is that as long as you go with either Canon or Nikon is that You're picking something good. The differences between the two are splitting hairs.

Both are light years ahead of what other DSLR makers are doing.
 

Laura

22
Premium Member
My vote is for the rebel XTI .. it's got the more sturdy CF cards instead of those flimsy SD cards

I actually got the XSi because the compact flash cards were terrible in my old rebel. They are expensive as crap, hard to find, and corrupted the files terribly. I've had so much less stress since switching to the XSi with the SD cards.

Without reading this thread, I do think the potential for a novice photographer to get a better shot would come from buying a digital SLR. I just find that the settings on those are more easy to understand, access, and change quickly. It seems like on the point and shoots you have to be able to navigate menus and the settings are just weird sometimes. I have a lot of trouble with my own point and shoot when I try and do anything fancy with it and I think I'm pretty photo savvy.

I know a lot of people who have hated their pictures, gone out and bought SLR's, and then come to me saying they don't have any idea how to use the camera or take nice pictures still. This is the advice I give everyone who says that - READ THE MANUAL! Read it cover to cover. I've taken college photography classes and such...but the absolute best resource I've ever had was my very own camera manual. It doesn't just tell you how to turn the camera on and off - it explains why you should use each setting and in one sort of situation with examples of how pictures look when taken with different settings. Once you've read the camera manual...if you're still having trouble then do what Dave always says and buy that book he recommends. :lol: (One of these days I'll actually check it out :lookaroun)
 

dolbyman

Well-Known Member
They are expensive as crap, hard to find, and corrupted the files terribly. I've had so much less stress since switching to the XSi with the SD cards.

I never had any corrupted files on my cams (all used CF cards) .. they're not much more expensive than other types (unless you buy extreme speeds) .. and the female connector of CF card is much less attracted to ESD than a SD card. We have so many mobile phone users that kill their SD cards by removing them and having an ESD.
 

PhotoDave219

Well-Known Member
That reminds me.. i lost a 1 gig card before a fireworks show along the shores of the Poly once.

I've never had an issue with CF cards, beyond misplacing them.
 
So, I'm pretty sure I'm buying a Canon EOS Rebel XSi. Or a Nikon D60. Can't decide. Any advice?

DH and I have been talking a lot about it, and we both are committed to learning how to use the camera properly and really getting into amateur photography. I've always had an interest, and dropping $700 is really good motivation for furthering that interest.... :lol: Thanks for all the help and feedback, guys.

If you are only down to those two lenses I would go with the Canon...only because the D60 doesn't have a built in auto focus motor so you are forced to buy the more expensive nikon lenses if you want autofocus. And for the record I'm a long time Nikon owner...

That said I think if I were just starting out I would also give the Sony A200, A300 or A350 a look also... The reason being that the Sony has its image stabilization built into the camera so no matter what lens you buy for the Sony it will have image stabilization... with the Canon and Nikon you'll have to pay extra for each lens you want that function in....

But before you buy... do yourself a favor and go to a store that sell these cameras and try them out. You may find one of them doesn't feel right... in the end a canon/nikon/sony would all take great pictures... but if the camera you buy doesn't feel right you'll use it less.
 

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