I know that character dinning, it's best to get a window seat for natural lighting to get decent pictures, but what about character meet and greets like anna and elsa? Does anyone know how the lighting in those area are? I read a couple of blogs suggesting that I increase my ISO and lower my aperture. Which is fine, but if there is very low lighting I'm afraid of how the photo will come out. I don't plan on bringing a tripod with me so if I move too much or if they kids move then it might come out blurry.
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DSLR setting for character pictures?
- Thread starter Livelovedisney
- Start date
No knowing the camera you have I don't think you'll get a lot of really useful info... Long ago I used a Nikon D50 which was only good for the inside meet and greets when I used an external flash didn't matter what lens I used the ISO was so bad above 400 you either needed a flash or the shutter would be so slow you would get motion blur... Last trip I just took a small Sony Nex with a Summicron 35 f2 and got decent photos with no flash... It all depends on the camera and lens. The older camera had such bad high ISO that you needed to use an external flash to get a useful photo, the newer camera have better ISO so you don't have to use grainy ISOs to get good photos as long as you have a decent lens to go with the camera... I've also found that you can use some of the better post processing software to make a shot that was 2 stops under exposed look good, which is great because I've never found any way to get rid of motion blur and with kids you aren't going to get them to stand still.
Some folks might think a faster lens is the best option to get better low light shots, and I've experimented with that with mixed results. While a very fast f1.2 lens will let you get shots with lower ISO settings it also results in such a very shallow depth of field that you end up with only parts of the face actually in focus... so before you think you can just get faster lenses consider a newer camera with a better sensor... if you can't go down that road consider an external flash if you're current camera gets grainy at high ISOs.
sporadic
Well-Known Member
Depends on your gear and the setup for the character. Last year I had switched systems and didn't have any fast lenses or an ETTL flash to bounce so I shot mostly wide open as I could and high ISO.
Anna and Elsa are fairly well lit. This was f/3.2 1/250 ISO3200. Biggest issue was getting everyone looking and smiling at the right time!
DSCF1073 by smerrick, on Flickr
Previous trip, window lit:
Where's your mom? by smerrick, on Flickr
Previous trip, bounced flash:
IMG_7155 by smerrick, on Flickr
Previous trip, Outdoors w/ fill flash (inside of mouth gives it away):
IMG_6767 by smerrick, on Flickr
Anna and Elsa are fairly well lit. This was f/3.2 1/250 ISO3200. Biggest issue was getting everyone looking and smiling at the right time!
DSCF1073 by smerrick, on Flickr
Previous trip, window lit:
Where's your mom? by smerrick, on Flickr
Previous trip, bounced flash:
IMG_7155 by smerrick, on Flickr
Previous trip, Outdoors w/ fill flash (inside of mouth gives it away):
IMG_6767 by smerrick, on Flickr
Thanks for the info. I have a older camera. Olympus e3 with a zuiko digital 12-60mm f2.8-4.0 swd lens. I have been practicing with taking pictures in low lighting with iso 400 to 800 and so far they all seem blurry.
sporadic
Well-Known Member
What shutter speeds are you seeing? May be a little too slow. See how the quality vs noise is at ISO1600 and shoot in aperture priority at f/2.8-4. Slow speed will lead blurring, whereas wide open apertures may be too soft.
If you're not familiar with the exposure triangle, give this site a visit - http://www.canonoutsideofauto.ca/
KeithVH
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm. Technically, the OP's camera is more than capable of taking the kind of picture in question. Except for one thing, additional light. This scenario is no different than any grip-and-grin shot. I would think seriously of an off-camera flash where you can dial back on the exposure. I hate to say it but you need to add some more light you can control.
Back in the day when they had this thing call "film", this was a slam dunk. And they didn't have any ISO 50 gazillion to do it with. Manual mode, ISO 200 or 400, 1/30 sec, f5.6 (or 8), second curtain sync, dial back the flash 2/3 stop and let the system decide how much flash to add. I have to admit not being familiar with Olympus flash algorithms but this is pretty standard with Nikon and Canon; can't see how Oly would be that diff. The slower speed and second sync will allow ambient light in so the flash and camera exposure system should cut off the flash when there is enough light to get an accurate exposure.
If you want natural light shots with no flash, the only thing I know of is to buy the most current generation digital with high ISO capability.
Back in the day when they had this thing call "film", this was a slam dunk. And they didn't have any ISO 50 gazillion to do it with. Manual mode, ISO 200 or 400, 1/30 sec, f5.6 (or 8), second curtain sync, dial back the flash 2/3 stop and let the system decide how much flash to add. I have to admit not being familiar with Olympus flash algorithms but this is pretty standard with Nikon and Canon; can't see how Oly would be that diff. The slower speed and second sync will allow ambient light in so the flash and camera exposure system should cut off the flash when there is enough light to get an accurate exposure.
If you want natural light shots with no flash, the only thing I know of is to buy the most current generation digital with high ISO capability.
If i shoot in aperture priority I can't control the shutter speed....or at least it doesn't seem like I can.
I don't mind having to use flash if i have to, but and it does have different flash settings. I guess I just have to use it. I don't normally have to take pictures in low light so I've never had to use it before. I'm an amateur and would usually prefer to take pictures out door due to the natural lighting.
WDI 1998
Active Member
Shoot using Shutter priority instead of AP. To avoid motion blur the lowest shutter speed you should be using is 1/60. 1/80 would be better but if you have steady hands you should be OK. What lens you are using also effects if you get motion blur. Don't use a zoom like a 70 - 200 and zoom way in. Use a lens like a 28-70mm and get a bit closer to your subject. Go and do some test shots at the beginning of your trip and get an idea of what you may need for an ISO setting and then adjust on the fly. Keep your ISO as low as you can to avoid noise but high enough to get a well light shot. The more you shoot the better you will get.
Thanks for the advice. I will be taking lots of picture before the trip to get an idea of the settings I will need.
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
I think that this is one of those cases where you go ISO 800 or more, f/5.6 and bounce the flash off the ceiling.
There are times for flash and this is one of them. You'll get MAYBE 30 seconds to 1 Minute with your character and the kids.
Character breakfasts are not the time to get artsy.....
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
Nah, there's a time and a place for bouncing the flash off the ceiling. This is it. ISO 400, f/5.6 and (likely) flash at 1/4 power.
haha...I can try...but yeah, i'm not going to worry about getting the perfect shot at character meals. do you think I can bounce the built in flash off the ceiling?
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
Didn't realize you were using a built in flash.
I do have another flash, but I really don't want to bring it mainly because I'm don't want to bring too much camera equipment.
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
As much as I hate to say it? And It truly kills my soul to suggest this.... but green box/program mode is perfect for the character breakfasts.
As for not too much gear? IMO that's the right choice. Plus it forces you to be creative. Work with what you have. Plus with kids, you don't have time to switch to the right lens. Barely have time to get on their level and compose a shot.
sporadic
Well-Known Member
I'd seriously consider taking a flash as Dave mentioned. Practice bouncing it around on your indoor shots at home and using it for fill flash outside. Pop-up's can work ok for fill if you can dial it back a little, but you'll be much happier bouncing a flashgun for indoor character meals and meets.
NowInc
Well-Known Member
Another tip I can toss in is there is a good chance you wont be "first in line" to take pics of a character. I personally almost never bring a hot shoe flash with me, so I really rely on shooting manual to make sure I can get the shot I need with whatever room is "on site" (which with most Meet and Greets is pretty decent). So my tip is to fire off a few test shots of the characters meeting with the people before you (from your spot in line, don't go moving up and acting like you're with them 
). Doing this will yield you the ability to adjust your shutter speed, iso, and aperture (The exposure triangle that anyone with a camera should read up on) to find the best balance for the situation.
HONESTLY, it is my opinion that its better to use on flash than the one built into your camera body. There ARE modifiers you can get for a pop up flash, but really you are severely limited due to the inability to point it any place but right in front of you.
). Doing this will yield you the ability to adjust your shutter speed, iso, and aperture (The exposure triangle that anyone with a camera should read up on) to find the best balance for the situation. HONESTLY, it is my opinion that its better to use on flash than the one built into your camera body. There ARE modifiers you can get for a pop up flash, but really you are severely limited due to the inability to point it any place but right in front of you.
Okay I pulled up some samples of higher ISO on the OPs camera... I think you need to take your flash with you and if don't want to deal with trying to bounce it you might get a cheap diffuser to go on it. The OPs camera has too much noise above ISO 800 for my taste, if it is a Olympus E3 then it was made back in 2007 when higher ISO was married to noise... I think some of the poster here may be making suggestions based on newer cameras and their ability to shoot higher ISO without as much noise, this camera is about the equivalent to a Nikon D50 in terms of low light capabilities.
If you don't have a diffuser and want to try to just get by with what you have take a piece of waxed paper and tape it to the external flash you have... it isn't the best option but it will diffuse the flash somewhat and should help limit the harsh shadows a little.
If you don't have a diffuser and want to try to just get by with what you have take a piece of waxed paper and tape it to the external flash you have... it isn't the best option but it will diffuse the flash somewhat and should help limit the harsh shadows a little.
Very true, my camera has a lot of noise at ISO of 3200 without using flash. It's crappy. I guess it's time to ask my brother how to use the darn flash..haha...