Can someone explain ISO to me...

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
Over the last few months I have been trying to get more into photography and actually learning how take photo in the "Manaul" mode as opposed to the "Auto" mode. One thing I am still shaky on and don't quite understand is ISO. Can someone please explain this to me and give me different scenarios for using the different ISO settings? I am using a DSLR to take my pictures. Thank you in advance for the info. I look forward to reading everyone's comments.
 

gwhb75

Well-Known Member
Over the last few months I have been trying to get more into photography and actually learning how take photo in the "Manaul" mode as opposed to the "Auto" mode. One thing I am still shaky on and don't quite understand is ISO. Can someone please explain this to me and give me different scenarios for using the different ISO settings? I am using a DSLR to take my pictures. Thank you in advance for the info. I look forward to reading everyone's comments.

ISO has to do with how sensitive the camera is to light. The brighter the scene, the lower the ISO setting needs to be. I've attached a link to an article that helps explain it:
http://digital-photography-school.com/iso-settings
 

KeithVH

Well-Known Member
I'll limit this to only the concept in a digital world. Treat ISO as a sensor sensitivity setting (say that fast five times). The higher the number, the more sensitive the sensor is to light. The tradeoff is that, as you crank up the ISO, you'll intorduce more "noise" into the image. Some people will call this grain but it's not the same thing. Suffice to say more noise will look like larger artifacts and dots in your exposures. Take a long exposure of the night sky with no processing on it and you'll see a blue/black speckled frame in most cases, that's noise. You use lower ISO in brighter scenes normally while the higher ISO settings are saved for night or inside pictures. You might use a higher ISO setting outside to use higher shutter speeds to stop action too. Outside daytime in the parks I would say 100, inside, maybe 800 depending on available light. 1600 to 3200 for dark rides and no flash. I know I said higher ISO can be noisy but sometimes that's the only way to get some pics. Note that night/very low light exposures will take TWICE the time of your shutter speed. Say you take a 5 second exposure - your camera will take another 5 seconds to process (it's doing something called dark frame subtraction, trying to optimize the image with onboard s/w). Some cameras are better at that than others. Some cameras have better sensors than others. ISO on your camera will not be the same as on others (close but not exactly the same).

HTH
 

CP_alum08

Well-Known Member
What Keith said is spot on. Back in the 'old' days ISO was your film speed. If you went and bought 400 speed film you were essentially shooting at 400 ISO. Basically it comes down to - the brighter the scene, the lower ISO you can use. And if you are shooting with the intent on making large prints you want to use the lowest ISO possible for the scene because that noise from a high ISO is much more noticeable when you print big.

Set up a tripod and set a constant shutter and aperture. Now take a new shot adjusting the ISO up or down each time and see what a difference it makes. That's how I finally grasped the concept.
 

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
I'll limit this to only the concept in a digital world. Treat ISO as a sensor sensitivity setting (say that fast five times). The higher the number, the more sensitive the sensor is to light. The tradeoff is that, as you crank up the ISO, you'll intorduce more "noise" into the image. Some people will call this grain but it's not the same thing. Suffice to say more noise will look like larger artifacts and dots in your exposures. Take a long exposure of the night sky with no processing on it and you'll see a blue/black speckled frame in most cases, that's noise. You use lower ISO in brighter scenes normally while the higher ISO settings are saved for night or inside pictures. You might use a higher ISO setting outside to use higher shutter speeds to stop action too. Outside daytime in the parks I would say 100, inside, maybe 800 depending on available light. 1600 to 3200 for dark rides and no flash. I know I said higher ISO can be noisy but sometimes that's the only way to get some pics. Note that night/very low light exposures will take TWICE the time of your shutter speed. Say you take a 5 second exposure - your camera will take another 5 seconds to process (it's doing something called dark frame subtraction, trying to optimize the image with onboard s/w). Some cameras are better at that than others. Some cameras have better sensors than others. ISO on your camera will not be the same as on others (close but not exactly the same).

HTH

How does this relate to taking photos of a fireworks display such as Wishes? From the sound of it I would want to stay with a higher ISO setting because I am taking picures outside in the dark. However, would the bursts from the foreworks display casue enough light that I need to use a lower ISO setting, such as 200? Thanks again for the insight.
 

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
What Keith said is spot on. Back in the 'old' days ISO was your film speed. If you went and bought 400 speed film you were essentially shooting at 400 ISO. Basically it comes down to - the brighter the scene, the lower ISO you can use. And if you are shooting with the intent on making large prints you want to use the lowest ISO possible for the scene because that noise from a high ISO is much more noticeable when you print big.

Set up a tripod and set a constant shutter and aperture. Now take a new shot adjusting the ISO up or down each time and see what a difference it makes. That's how I finally grasped the concept.

I appreciate the advice, especially the suggestion on setting up a tripod and just taking the same picture set at various ISO settings. I'll probably try to do that in the next week and do one session during the day and one sessions at night just to get an idea. Thanks again.
 

Allen C

Well-Known Member
How does this relate to taking photos of a fireworks display such as Wishes? From the sound of it I would want to stay with a higher ISO setting because I am taking picures outside in the dark. However, would the bursts from the foreworks display casue enough light that I need to use a lower ISO setting, such as 200? Thanks again for the insight.

For fireworks I use the lowest ISO possible (ISO 100). The thing is, I also use a tripod, ND filter and remote shutter release in full Manual, Bulb mode and with exposures of around 10 to 30 seconds.

I have tried shooting fireworks hand-held with ISO's from 200 and higher and the results have always been terrible.

If you're using a setup similar to mine then use the lowest ISO possible for best results.
 

ddbowdoin

Well-Known Member
How does this relate to taking photos of a fireworks display such as Wishes? From the sound of it I would want to stay with a higher ISO setting because I am taking picures outside in the dark. However, would the bursts from the foreworks display casue enough light that I need to use a lower ISO setting, such as 200? Thanks again for the insight.

No, shoot at the lowest ISO possible. This will ensure you'll avoid a noisy image. Now, this would simply require you to use a tripod and shoot a longer exposure.
 

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
For fireworks I use the lowest ISO possible (ISO 100). The thing is, I also use a tripod, ND filter and remote shutter release in full Manual, Bulb mode and with exposures of around 10 to 30 seconds.

I have tried shooting fireworks hand-held with ISO's from 200 and higher and the results have always been terrible.

If you're using a setup similar to mine then use the lowest ISO possible for best results.

For fireworks I use the lowest ISO possible (ISO 100). The thing is, I also use a tripod, ND filter and remote shutter release in full Manual, Bulb mode and with exposures of around 10 to 30 seconds.

I have tried shooting fireworks hand-held with ISO's from 200 and higher and the results have always been terrible.

If you're using a setup similar to mine then use the lowest ISO possible for best results.

Thanks for the advice guys. I already have a tripod, remote shutter release, and ND filters. I was thinking that shooting at the lowest ISO (200 in my case) would do it but just wan't to be sure.

On a side note, I was thinking about creating another thread but you can probably answer the question just as easily. Would you use a prime lens or a zoom lens photograph the Fireworks show, Wishes/Holiday Wishes. I have a 35 mm prime lense as well as a 18-55 mm. I was thinking the prime lens would be the better route to go but I wasn't sure. Your thoughts.
 

ddbowdoin

Well-Known Member
For fireworks I use the lowest ISO possible (ISO 100). The thing is, I also use a tripod, ND filter and remote shutter release in full Manual, Bulb mode and with exposures of around 10 to 30 seconds.

I have tried shooting fireworks hand-held with ISO's from 200 and higher and the results have always been terrible.

If you're using a setup similar to mine then use the lowest ISO possible for best results.

you beat me lol

let me tell you something friends, shooting fireworks on a digital camera (DSLR) is eassssssssssy! I used to not feel this way until I traveled to WDW with this...

shooting fireworks on film, yeah... have fun guessing the correct exposure time!

1832037074_149a5ed76a.jpg
 

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
No, shoot at the lowest ISO possible. This will ensure you'll avoid a noisy image. Now, this would simply require you to use a tripod and shoot a longer exposure.

Thanks for the advice guys. I already have a tripod, remote shutter release, and ND filters. I was thinking that shooting at the lowest ISO (200 in my case) would do it but just wan't to be sure.

On a side note, I was thinking about creating another thread but you can probably answer the question just as easily. Would you use a prime lens or a zoom lens photograph the Fireworks show, Wishes/Holiday Wishes. I have a 35 mm prime lense as well as a 18-55 mm. I was thinking the prime lens would be the better route to go but I wasn't sure. Your thoughts.
 

ddbowdoin

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advice guys. I already have a tripod, remote shutter release, and ND filters. I was thinking that shooting at the lowest ISO (200 in my case) would do it but just wan't to be sure.

On a side note, I was thinking about creating another thread but you can probably answer the question just as easily. Would you use a prime lens or a zoom lens photograph the Fireworks show, Wishes/Holiday Wishes. I have a 35 mm prime lense as well as a 18-55 mm. I was thinking the prime lens would be the better route to go but I wasn't sure. Your thoughts.

prime... sharper 100% of the time until you compare it to a pro level zoom.
 

wdwmagic

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Thanks for the advice guys. I already have a tripod, remote shutter release, and ND filters. I was thinking that shooting at the lowest ISO (200 in my case) would do it but just wan't to be sure.

On a side note, I was thinking about creating another thread but you can probably answer the question just as easily. Would you use a prime lens or a zoom lens photograph the Fireworks show, Wishes/Holiday Wishes. I have a 35 mm prime lense as well as a 18-55 mm. I was thinking the prime lens would be the better route to go but I wasn't sure. Your thoughts.
It sounds like you are very new to DSLR photography, so I'm going to say that a zoom is the way to go. I would doubt that you would be able to see a significant difference in image quality with firework shots between a prime and a zoom. However, the zoom gives you massive amounts of flexibility in a crowded park environment, and can basically be the difference between getting the shot or not.

Primes are all well and good for higher end bodies and experienced photographers, but if you are new to photography, are on a somewhat limited budget, and aiming to use this in a park, you really can't beat a zoom in my opinion.
 

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
It sounds like you are very new to DSLR photography, so I'm going to say that a zoom is the way to go. I would doubt that you would be able to see a significant difference in image quality with firework shots between a prime and a zoom. However, the zoom gives you massive amounts of flexibility in a crowded park environment, and can basically be the difference between getting the shot or not.

Primes are all well and good for higher end bodies and experienced photographers, but if you are new to photography, are on a somewhat limited budget, and aiming to use this in a park, you really can't beat a zoom in my opinion.

I've had my DSLR for about 5 years now, but in the last 6 months I have been taking the time to get to know the camera and actualy use the camera in the way it was meant to be used. I have been pouring over the forums, Tom Brickers website and the Disneyphotography blog so that I can get up to speed on cameras and photography in general.

This past weekend I spent about two hours at my local botanical garden just taking randon shots and playing with the aperture and shutter speed to get the hang of the camera. Would have done more but it started to rain. Between now and our trip in late November I plan on taking 4 - 5 hours every week to really dig into the camera and get used to shooting in different conditions.

I already have a prime and 2 zoom lenses so I'm just trying to figure out which way to go in certain scenarios. I appreciate the advice concerning the crowds, I can definately see how having the zoom lens would help me overcome a crowd issue.
 

wdwmagic

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I've had my DSLR for about 5 years now, but in the last 6 months I have been taking the time to get to know the camera and actualy use the camera in the way it was meant to be used. I have been pouring over the forums, Tom Brickers website and the Disneyphotography blog so that I can get up to speed on cameras and photography in general.

This past weekend I spent about two hours at my local botanical garden just taking randon shots and playing with the aperture and shutter speed to get the hang of the camera. Would have done more but it started to rain. Between now and our trip in late November I plan on taking 4 - 5 hours every week to really dig into the camera and get used to shooting in different conditions.

I already have a prime and 2 zoom lenses so I'm just trying to figure out which way to go in certain scenarios. I appreciate the advice concerning the crowds, I can definately see how having the zoom lens would help me overcome a crowd issue.
Sounds good!

Another consideration with the lens choice is of course the body. If you are running on a 5 year old body, the sensor is possibly going to be one of the weaker links in the chain (depending on model).
 

ddbowdoin

Well-Known Member
I've had my DSLR for about 5 years now, but in the last 6 months I have been taking the time to get to know the camera and actualy use the camera in the way it was meant to be used. I have been pouring over the forums, Tom Brickers website and the Disneyphotography blog so that I can get up to speed on cameras and photography in general.

This past weekend I spent about two hours at my local botanical garden just taking randon shots and playing with the aperture and shutter speed to get the hang of the camera. Would have done more but it started to rain. Between now and our trip in late November I plan on taking 4 - 5 hours every week to really dig into the camera and get used to shooting in different conditions.

I already have a prime and 2 zoom lenses so I'm just trying to figure out which way to go in certain scenarios. I appreciate the advice concerning the crowds, I can definately see how having the zoom lens would help me overcome a crowd issue.

5 year old body, seriously look at keh.com for a nice used body. They have great prices, but more importantly they:

1.) have a very conservative rating, I know many people who have purchased "bargain" graded items and they looked and functioned well.
2.) carry a complimentary 60 day warranty in case anything happens.
 

Joshua&CalebDad

Well-Known Member
Original Poster
Sounds good!

Another consideration with the lens choice is of course the body. If you are running on a 5 year old body, the sensor is possibly going to be one of the weaker links in the chain (depending on model).

5 year old body, seriously look at keh.com for a nice used body. They have great prices, but more importantly they:

1.) have a very conservative rating, I know many people who have purchased "bargain" graded items and they looked and functioned well.
2.) carry a complimentary 60 day warranty in case anything happens.

What I have is the Nikon D50. I have been thinking about upgrading to the D5100 but at this time can't really justify it. I have been watching the prices fall and I can pick it up new right now for $550; if it would drop another $50 I might go ahead and pick it up. It's hard to justify my cause when I have had it for 5 years and am now just really starting to use it.
 

wdwmagic

Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
What I have is the Nikon D50. I have been thinking about upgrading to the D5100 but at this time can't really justify it. I have been watching the prices fall and I can pick it up new right now for $550; if it would drop another $50 I might go ahead and pick it up. It's hard to justify my cause when I have had it for 5 years and am now just really starting to use it.
That body is around 2005. It is more than capable of getting good firework images, but I certainly don't think the lens is going to be a factor. I would go with the flexibility of the zoom any day in your position.
 

everestnut

Active Member
Just my 2 cents on the firework question and lens. While the prime is a sharper lens, the zoom is definitely your better choice. I just got back and shot wishes and illuminations twice. Pretty much all of my shots were at 17. Unless you are set up pretty far back, a 35 on a crop sensor wont get everything in the picture.
 

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