I think it's a really bad idea for a Disney Veteran/UniNewbie to stay at one of the Uni Deluxes with the free express passes. It could quite possibly lead to panic attacks and confusion.
"OGM!!!! We don't have any ADR times, no FP+ times, nothing's planned!!!! We don't even have a spread sheet! This is going to be a train wreck!!!!
So true!!! I know you're joking, but no one in my family reacted well to not having a down to the minute plan. It's the one thing I didn't plan for, how the kids would react to not having a plan to follow! Complete disaster!
As far as the OP...
I'd definitely stay at Royal Pacific and use the express passes. We went in the spring a couple of years ago and stayed there, and now I'm spoiled. I've stayed there a couple of times and always had really great experiences. I especially love the path you take to walk over to the parks. It always seems so beautiful and peaceful.
We went for 3 days our first trip, and it felt like the perfect amount of time. One day each park; one day for repeat rides and things we missed the first time around. We ended up really needing all 3 days even with the passes, but due to a few unforeseen issues we didn't tour open to close as usual, so we probably could have gotten away with 2 very long days. I'd say the crowds were moderate when we went. It wasn't off season, but not super crowded either. Definitely, not anywhere as bad as summer peak levels. We really only needed the pass for about half the rides, but I felt it was still worth it. Especially, when the kids wanted to ride the coasters over and over again and the wait was over an hour long. It is almost surreal though to realize you can just wander around and ride anything you come across with minimal to no waiting whenever you want with the EP.
The only time I'd really see not needing the EP, would be if you were planning on spending most or all of your time either at shows and on less popular attractions or in the HP sections. The last few times I've gone to Universal the 2 coasters, the 2 main HP rides (these don't accept EP), Dispicable Me, Spider-Man, Transformers, High in the Sky Trolley, and the water rides (in warm weather) have had the longest waits anywhere from 30min on up to over an hour depending on the time of day, with much longer waits for the HP rides. As these were all low to mid crowd calendar days, I'd expect worse waits in the summer.
Honestly, I've toured both ways, with and without EP, and though it can be done without a pass, for a first time visitor, I'd recommend the pass. Take your time, relax, and try to experience as much as possible. Then you'll have a better idea if you want to try it in the future without the pass based on which attractions you end up really liking.
For instance:
I can go with my mother or sister, plan a little and survive without the pass. We usually ride a couple of favorites, see a show or two, eat lunch, and focus on low or no wait activities such as window shopping or watching street performers. We also have a bad habit of disappearing into the HP section and never coming back out again. So, no real need for a pass. Maybe once or twice a day, I'll wish we had it, so we could fit a little more in or because I'm being lazy and just don't want to wait, but not having the EP is more of an annoyance than a necessity.
On the other hand, if I go with my friend. All she wants to do is to ride rides, especially thrill rides, coasters, and water rides, and she wants to do them over over and again. When I go with her, we need an EP, or at least she does. Not having one in this situation means the number of attractions we can fit into one day is greatly impacted as we are focusing more on headliners with the longest waits.
Somethings to keep in mind:
1. One night is equal to two days of EP passes. You get passes for both your check in and check out days, so not sure how many days you were planning on staying, but you might look into a split stay with only one day at Royal Pacific and one somewhere else.
2. I'd also second the AP suggestion. You only need it for one person in the group to get the room discount. I've found that if I only go twice in one year it pays for itself, especially when I factor in savings. * Just make sure they are actually offering AP discounts for your dates first.
3. No more than 4 in a standard room. Only people registered to the room can get the EP pass.
4. The type of attractions your family is interested in and how many they want to fit into a day will effect your need for an EP. I'd make a list of must do attractions, look up the wait times for those, and then go from there.
Hope this helps. Good luck.