Chef's new gig
By Scott Joseph
Sentinel Food Critic
July 22, 2002
If there's a garage band looking for a rockabilly guitarist, Robert Curry would like you to know he's available.
He's new to the area and readily admits that he's still learning the technical intricacies of the music, and practice sessions will have to be worked around his regular job. But it's a pretty safe bet you'll be the best fed rockabilly band around.
Curry is the new executive chef at Flying Fish Cafe at Disney's Boardwalk, taking over for John State, who moved over to California Grill at the Contemporary Resort. Curry, 39, came to Disney after nearly eight years as the chef at Domaine Chandon in California's Napa Valley, not a bad gig, as they say in the music business. So what made him decide to pack up his guitar, his knives and, not incidentally, his family and move across the country?
"It was time for a new challenge for me," he says. "I was at the top of my game, and I think that's the best time to change." Curry's challenge will be to take on a popular restaurant and add his own influences without alienating the loyal regulars.
Curry describes his cooking style as "contemporary, using the freshest ingredients and French techniques." He adds, "the cuisine of California influences the rest of the country by heightening the awareness of what fresh food tastes like." Curry stresses the importance of seasonality. Of course, it's possible to get just about anything fresh any time of the year from anyplace in the world, but the quality may not be the same. For example, Curry says he's taking asparagus off the menu for the rest of the summer because the season is over and the only fresh asparagus he can get is too small.
Cooking with experience
Curry's culinary curriculum vitae has a number of high spots. He started his training at Wolfgang Puck's Ma Cuisine, a training school in Los Angeles, then graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. He trained with Alain Ducasse at his three-star Louis XV in Monaco, traveled the world to study different cuisines, including several weeks cooking in the kitchens of the Intercontinental Hotel chain in Yokohama and Tokyo, and finally went to work for Michel Richard at Citrus in Los Angeles. He joined Domaine Chandon in 1994.
Then about a year ago Dieter Hannig, Walt Disney World's vice president of food and beverage, dined at Curry's restaurant and was impressed enough that when the position at Flying Fish opened, he knew he wanted Curry to fill it.
Northern California is "a great place for grooming talent," says Hannig. "It sounds a little corny," he says, but "they respect the land, focusing more on the seasonal availability of product.
"I think the wine country has influenced the cooking too."
But when Hannig called Curry to discuss the job, Curry told him he was about to leave to do some cooking in Tokyo. So Hannig "jumped on a plane and said, 'Can you meet me before you head out?' "
"He actually met me in the airport to talk to me," says Curry. Hannig says he just has to talk to someone face to face. And he liked what he saw in Curry.
"We talk a lot about passion in this business," says Hannig. "The man has passion."
After he returned from Tokyo, Curry visited Disney World. "I saw the place and saw what Disney was doing, and I was impressed."
And what changes will he have for the popular seafood restaurant?
"I think it's funny because John State and I have pretty much the same mentality," says Curry. "We have the same likes and dislikes and quality standards. But as far as what I've actually changed on the menus, the proteins have pretty much stayed the same.
"After that, what's left?" he asks. "After that, it's all about what's in season now."
Still, as he looked over the menu and began to count, he spotted 14 changes, from appetizers to salads to entrees. "I haven't really touched enough on the desserts yet," he says. Desserts hold a special attraction for Curry, something he gained from his work with Richard, who was awarded the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef-California medal in 1992. "He's an amazing individual," says Curry, "And he's a pastry chef by trade. I learned a lot about desserts from him."
Most of the menu changes, says Curry, won't upset regular guests. He changed a tuna tartar to a salmon tartar, and added chardonnay-steamed mussels as well as a yellowfin tuna scented with coriander. Some popular items, such as the potato-wrapped snapper and the crab cakes, will remain as will some other dishes that have proven to be favorites.
"I want to be creative," he says, "but we're here to serve the guests."
A new way of working
Another challenge Curry has had to face in his new job is dealing with Disney's chain of command in acquiring products. In California, the chefs often visit the growers at farmers markets -- real farmers markets with actual farmers -- and buy their produce direct. "I'm used to having fewer people in the business, and at Disney there are a lot more people involved."
But he also sees that "as a good thing because they're a lot more careful about who they buy from. I don't want to buy from anybody who isn't running a tight ship."
Curry moved to Central Florida on April 29 with "just my guitar and my knives." His wife, Anne, and their children Lauren, 8, Andrew, 5, and 1-year-old Sophia arrived a month later. On his days off, Curry says he likes to just stay home and spend time with his family, play his guitar, maybe go fishing or do a little cooking, although those last two seem like work-related things.
"I usually stay simple," he explains, "maybe throw a steak on the barbecue."
Curry says the transition has been fairly easy. "I've been received well from the wait staff and from the kitchen staff.
"I've been lucky -- it's been a good move for me."
And for someone who likes to keep reaching for new goals, what's next?
"Who knows what the next challenge is until it comes?" he says.
Maybe a spot in that rockabilly band.
Scott Joseph can be reached at 407-420-5514 or sjoseph@orlandosentinel.com.
Copyright © 2002, Orlando Sentinel
http://www.orlandosentinel.com/entertainment/dining/orl-livchefcurry072202jul22.story
By Scott Joseph
Sentinel Food Critic
July 22, 2002
If there's a garage band looking for a rockabilly guitarist, Robert Curry would like you to know he's available.
He's new to the area and readily admits that he's still learning the technical intricacies of the music, and practice sessions will have to be worked around his regular job. But it's a pretty safe bet you'll be the best fed rockabilly band around.
Curry is the new executive chef at Flying Fish Cafe at Disney's Boardwalk, taking over for John State, who moved over to California Grill at the Contemporary Resort. Curry, 39, came to Disney after nearly eight years as the chef at Domaine Chandon in California's Napa Valley, not a bad gig, as they say in the music business. So what made him decide to pack up his guitar, his knives and, not incidentally, his family and move across the country?
"It was time for a new challenge for me," he says. "I was at the top of my game, and I think that's the best time to change." Curry's challenge will be to take on a popular restaurant and add his own influences without alienating the loyal regulars.
Curry describes his cooking style as "contemporary, using the freshest ingredients and French techniques." He adds, "the cuisine of California influences the rest of the country by heightening the awareness of what fresh food tastes like." Curry stresses the importance of seasonality. Of course, it's possible to get just about anything fresh any time of the year from anyplace in the world, but the quality may not be the same. For example, Curry says he's taking asparagus off the menu for the rest of the summer because the season is over and the only fresh asparagus he can get is too small.
Cooking with experience
Curry's culinary curriculum vitae has a number of high spots. He started his training at Wolfgang Puck's Ma Cuisine, a training school in Los Angeles, then graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. He trained with Alain Ducasse at his three-star Louis XV in Monaco, traveled the world to study different cuisines, including several weeks cooking in the kitchens of the Intercontinental Hotel chain in Yokohama and Tokyo, and finally went to work for Michel Richard at Citrus in Los Angeles. He joined Domaine Chandon in 1994.
Then about a year ago Dieter Hannig, Walt Disney World's vice president of food and beverage, dined at Curry's restaurant and was impressed enough that when the position at Flying Fish opened, he knew he wanted Curry to fill it.
Northern California is "a great place for grooming talent," says Hannig. "It sounds a little corny," he says, but "they respect the land, focusing more on the seasonal availability of product.
"I think the wine country has influenced the cooking too."
But when Hannig called Curry to discuss the job, Curry told him he was about to leave to do some cooking in Tokyo. So Hannig "jumped on a plane and said, 'Can you meet me before you head out?' "
"He actually met me in the airport to talk to me," says Curry. Hannig says he just has to talk to someone face to face. And he liked what he saw in Curry.
"We talk a lot about passion in this business," says Hannig. "The man has passion."
After he returned from Tokyo, Curry visited Disney World. "I saw the place and saw what Disney was doing, and I was impressed."
And what changes will he have for the popular seafood restaurant?
"I think it's funny because John State and I have pretty much the same mentality," says Curry. "We have the same likes and dislikes and quality standards. But as far as what I've actually changed on the menus, the proteins have pretty much stayed the same.
"After that, what's left?" he asks. "After that, it's all about what's in season now."
Still, as he looked over the menu and began to count, he spotted 14 changes, from appetizers to salads to entrees. "I haven't really touched enough on the desserts yet," he says. Desserts hold a special attraction for Curry, something he gained from his work with Richard, who was awarded the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef-California medal in 1992. "He's an amazing individual," says Curry, "And he's a pastry chef by trade. I learned a lot about desserts from him."
Most of the menu changes, says Curry, won't upset regular guests. He changed a tuna tartar to a salmon tartar, and added chardonnay-steamed mussels as well as a yellowfin tuna scented with coriander. Some popular items, such as the potato-wrapped snapper and the crab cakes, will remain as will some other dishes that have proven to be favorites.
"I want to be creative," he says, "but we're here to serve the guests."
A new way of working
Another challenge Curry has had to face in his new job is dealing with Disney's chain of command in acquiring products. In California, the chefs often visit the growers at farmers markets -- real farmers markets with actual farmers -- and buy their produce direct. "I'm used to having fewer people in the business, and at Disney there are a lot more people involved."
But he also sees that "as a good thing because they're a lot more careful about who they buy from. I don't want to buy from anybody who isn't running a tight ship."
Curry moved to Central Florida on April 29 with "just my guitar and my knives." His wife, Anne, and their children Lauren, 8, Andrew, 5, and 1-year-old Sophia arrived a month later. On his days off, Curry says he likes to just stay home and spend time with his family, play his guitar, maybe go fishing or do a little cooking, although those last two seem like work-related things.
"I usually stay simple," he explains, "maybe throw a steak on the barbecue."
Curry says the transition has been fairly easy. "I've been received well from the wait staff and from the kitchen staff.
"I've been lucky -- it's been a good move for me."
And for someone who likes to keep reaching for new goals, what's next?
"Who knows what the next challenge is until it comes?" he says.
Maybe a spot in that rockabilly band.
Scott Joseph can be reached at 407-420-5514 or sjoseph@orlandosentinel.com.
Copyright © 2002, Orlando Sentinel
http://www.orlandosentinel.com/entertainment/dining/orl-livchefcurry072202jul22.story