Is this a good starter camera for the parks, or out dated?
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Brand new to DSLR, what about Canon Rebel eos T3
- Thread starter mickey2008.1
- Start date
NowInc
Well-Known Member
Depends on what types of pictures you wish to take. As far as a STARTER camera, it falls into that category..yes. Will it perform well outdoors in the day? Of course. Will it still perform great in low light? Maybe not so much. Are you going to try and take shots inside dark rides?
As for outdates...thats a bit of a loaded question. Both Canon and Nikon release new bodies at a rate that creates a lot of options..sometimes thats good..sometimes thats bad. The T3i Is, i believe, the top of their "starter" bodies..but its also a tad bit older. Perhaps some canon users here can chime in about any rumors of a pending replacement coming out?
everestnut
Active Member
The T3 is still a very good camera. I bought one for my Daughter. It lightweight and the images are very good. Would someone else consider a 12 mp camera outdated, maybe. My opinion is it is an outstanding starter camera for DSLR's.
To echo a few of Nowinc statements, at the rate both Canon and Nikon are putting out bodies, this one is a little older. For a walkaround daytime camera, it is great. Very easy to set and shoot. Once things get a little darker without a flash, well its an entry level camera. The high ISO is not that great.
If you are wanting to just get a starter DSLR body,this one still is a great buy.
To echo a few of Nowinc statements, at the rate both Canon and Nikon are putting out bodies, this one is a little older. For a walkaround daytime camera, it is great. Very easy to set and shoot. Once things get a little darker without a flash, well its an entry level camera. The high ISO is not that great.
If you are wanting to just get a starter DSLR body,this one still is a great buy.
NowInc
Well-Known Member
Also another question is...how far do you think you are going to take your photography? Its very addicting and if you think you may decide to take it more seriously..a bigger investment may be beneficial. A LOT of people are scared off by the "higher end" DSLR's because of all the buttons..but honestly its VERY fast to learn what they do (and as far as I know..ANY crop sensor DSLR still has an "auto" mode)...and in the long, you'll get far more use out of it. I used a nikon D3100 (entry level..bottom of the barrel) for almost 2 years and about halfway through it I had wished I invested in something better. Eventually I did (waited for the D7100), and INSTANTLY I felt the difference.
OR...you could also get the T3i and spend more money on good lenses (also a good idea). That will help you get more longevity out of the camera.
Don't ever let it be said that anyone claimed photography is a cheap hobby..lol
OR...you could also get the T3i and spend more money on good lenses (also a good idea). That will help you get more longevity out of the camera.
Don't ever let it be said that anyone claimed photography is a cheap hobby..lol
everestnut
Active Member
I did assume that you were talking about the T3 and not the T3i. In that assumption, I was guessing what made it attractive was the price.
I would agree that if you are truly interested in photography at all, invest a little more. For the Canon line, there are alot of options in the mid level cameras that will make you much happier in the long run.
I would agree that if you are truly interested in photography at all, invest a little more. For the Canon line, there are alot of options in the mid level cameras that will make you much happier in the long run.
WDI 1998
Active Member
Are you thinking you will get the body with a lens included (commonly known as a kit lens)? I did this some years ago with a Nikon D80 and to be completely honest the lenses were a waste of money. I think I spent about $1300 on the body, and 18 - 55mm & 70 - 300 lenses. It also came with a camera bag and some accessories but what I should have done was to buy the body and get something like a 28 - 75mm f2.8 lens. Tamron makes one and it costs about $500. The T3 costs $319 so for under 1K you are in a good body with a great lens that you can grow with. If you decide to upgrade the body at some point in the future you can still use the lens. I have the Nikon version of this lens and I can tell you first hand it is a great lens, sharp, fast and it is f2.8 all the way though. Meaning you can get the f2.8 all the way from 28 through the 75mm. For a Disney trip this would be a great walk around lens as well. Spend more money on good glass than on the body. The glass will grow with you the body wont.
CP_alum08
Well-Known Member
In all honesty if you can afford more, step up. The "nicer" cameras have several functions that make photography easier, specifically dedicated buttons come to mind. Instead of fumbling around in menus trying to adjust your ISO you can hold the dedicated ISO button, spin the wheel, and adjust the ISO on the fly. They also will have more auto-focus points, which might not sound like a big deal now, but if you get into shallow dof stuff it will make life easier and also just makes nailing focus easier on everyday shots.
Also, like mentioned above, upgrading the kit lens is a must. Going with something like a 60D and a 50mm 1.8 will give you exponentially better results than with a T3 and the kit lens and for only about $200 more. Usually I don't like when people say "spend more!" but when first starting out you want something that is going to be easy to use and will produce good results and spending a little more upfront will save you the hassle of selling your T3 6 months from now when you outgrow it!
Also, like mentioned above, upgrading the kit lens is a must. Going with something like a 60D and a 50mm 1.8 will give you exponentially better results than with a T3 and the kit lens and for only about $200 more. Usually I don't like when people say "spend more!" but when first starting out you want something that is going to be easy to use and will produce good results and spending a little more upfront will save you the hassle of selling your T3 6 months from now when you outgrow it!
Thanks for all the feed back. I'm just looking to step up from a ps and be able to get some better night time shots. Being able to adjust ISO really helps that. It may become a hobby, but I just love to take food pics and stuff at WDW and post on this site. It's great to see all the pictures on here, and just want mine to be more clear and be able to get better fire works shots. I have been looking around, and the T3 is good priced and has good reviews and reliability. If I get a tri-pod, will it capture fire works that are'nt a blurr?
ddbowdoin
Well-Known Member
Tripod is a must.. But look online, tons of free e-books related to this topic. Fireworks are easy once you do it once. The hardest part is learning the show and learning exposure times.
Load your camera onto a tripod.
1. ISO 100
2. Manual Focus to Infinity
3. F11
4. Use a shutter release cable / trigger remote
5. Expensive but a nice NDF filter helps.
Release the shutter, keep it open. Depending on what show could mean 5 seconds or 10 seconds. 30 seconds if you use an NDF filter
WDI 1998
Active Member
LOL...This how all of us got started! We all said we just want to take some better pictures at WDW. Now we are addicted and have put countless hours into researching the best rig we can afford. Once we get that one though we start thinking about what is next.
It sounds to me like you have a good idea of what you want and want to achieve. I look forward to seeing your pictures!
Lord_Vader
Join me, together we can rule the galaxy.
The T3i is a good overall starter camera that will allow you to get your lens collection started. I would highly recommend staying away from the 18-55 lens combo and moving to the 18-135 for a bit more range and a slight increase in lens quality. Lenses and a 430EX bounce flash with a diffuse (STOFEN) will make a huge difference, especially with inside shots and even outdoor portraits.
If you are planning to use your camera at WDW I would highly recommend a good amount of practice using the camera beforehand, purchase a couple extra batteries/charger if you plan to take a lot of photos and get the fasted SDHC cards you can afford in 8-16Gb capacities, I always recommend pairs to cover you in the event of a loss or failure. For memory cards, I prefer SANDISK but there are other high quality memory cards available, just read the reviews well or talk to your local camera shop and not Best Buy or Sams Club.
I would look deeply into the new Canon 70D that is due out on September 15th but it is more pricey with a kit lens but is hands down the best mid-range camera to come out since the 50D in 2008.
For night shots, get the best quality tripod you can that will support the weight of your new camera.
If you are planning to use your camera at WDW I would highly recommend a good amount of practice using the camera beforehand, purchase a couple extra batteries/charger if you plan to take a lot of photos and get the fasted SDHC cards you can afford in 8-16Gb capacities, I always recommend pairs to cover you in the event of a loss or failure. For memory cards, I prefer SANDISK but there are other high quality memory cards available, just read the reviews well or talk to your local camera shop and not Best Buy or Sams Club.
I would look deeply into the new Canon 70D that is due out on September 15th but it is more pricey with a kit lens but is hands down the best mid-range camera to come out since the 50D in 2008.
For night shots, get the best quality tripod you can that will support the weight of your new camera.
fractal
Well-Known Member
Can you explain to me Focusing to Infinity? I've been confused with different explanations.
Thanks!
Allen C
Well-Known Member
@fractal:
>Switch to Manual Focus
>Turn your focus ring to the Infinity marker - the horizontal figure-8
>While shooting fireworks, try not to touch tour focus ring when composing your shot
>Depending on your aperture, anything from a few meters in front of your lens to infinity will be in focus
fractal
Well-Known Member
@fractal:
>Switch to Manual Focus
>Turn your focus ring to the Infinity marker - the horizontal figure-8
>While shooting fireworks, try not to touch tour focus ring when composing your shot
>Depending on your aperture, anything from a few meters in front of your lens to infinity will be in focus
Thanks Allen,
It seems my confusion comes from the fact that most of my lenses do not have focus marks ( I'm shooting an NEX-7 ). Since reading your response I did a quick search and discovered if I am using a lens without the infinity mark, I can use focus peaking ( shooting manual focus ) and just make sure the furtherest object is in focus. Does this make sense?
If they are trying to shoot dark rides I think the bigger issue is the lens you use, much more so than the camera. No kit lens will work worth a flip on dark rides, they would need a much faster and more expensive lens.
I think the first thing the OP needs to do is realize that when he/she gets into a dslr, that they are not just buying a camera... the are committing to a particular brand and every lens, flash, what not will need to be specific for that camera. So if you know you will likely want to get another particular lens, and if you know you also want to someday add a flash... price those things into your decision, because the last thing you want to do is get what you think is a bargain body to only find out that the accessories and add-ons you want are more expensive than the ones made for the other camera you didn't get because it cost a bit more for the body.
And from my experience, I'm not a fan of Canons if you intend to use them with a flash. I prefer the Nikon flash system... but then that is only my preference I'm sure others would disagree.
Allen C
Well-Known Member
That should work if your lens doesn't have focus markers.
ddbowdoin
Well-Known Member
Your camera when using live view (in MF mode) should have markings on the screen... that's what my Fuji had, helped when I was focusing for Illuminations.