MickeyTigg
New Member
Very Nice!
Great job Laura!
:sohappy:
Great job Laura!
:sohappy:
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How to photograph AK Tree of Life?
- Thread starter Laura
- Start date
FrumiousBoojum
New Member
Laura22 said:Here's the result of all my practice:
Good job!
For further adjustments if you'd like, use at least Photoshop CS (or a newer version of Elements, if it includes the feature [I don't keep up with Elements much to know...]) to adjust the shadows/highlights and midtone contrast. That should help bring out the detail that's hidden in the shadows of the tree.
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
FrumiousBoojum said:
I prefer just using the curves to accomplish the same effect. Personally, i like harsh shadows.... I try to have to do as little in photoshop as possible. I like all my tricks to be real....
And Laura... good job on that. That was probably 1/1000 at f/8 at ISO 200. (Or thats the proper exposure for bright sunlight... sunny f/16 rule.)
FrumiousBoojum
New Member
PhotoDave219 said:
Photoshop... a million ways to do just about everything the same.
As for me, I just find I have a little more ease of control doing it through the shadows/highlights dialogue. I did a test to see about what it might look like and it is a bit preferable for me since the tree is so detailed to tone down the shadows. (Plus maxing out the colour correction a bit is a good quick way to give this photo the look of the colour Disneyland photos of the 50s.
)I agree that it's best to do as little in photoshop as possible -- it's basically based on slide film technology, so it should be looked at in a slide film way. However, photoshop just needs to be looked at as the alternative to the darkroom whenever possible when doing digital -- it's the difference between letting a lab do your prints and making your own prints.
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
....... Heh. I know this......
FrumiousBoojum
New Member
PhotoDave219 said:
Eh... I know. Need to remember who I'm talking to... long day at work. :snore:
PhotoDave219 said:
Let's see if Dave was right.....looking up exif info....
1/250 - f/9 - ISO 100. A little off, but I still think you're smart. :lol:
As for photoshop - if I take the time to take the picture correctly I usually don't need to photoshop it afterwards. On this vacation instead of just snapping away I really thought about what I was doing and set the camera correctly. Out of over 800 photos I think I only ended up adjusting about 50 of them later on. Normally when I just point and shoot I have to adjust about 90% of my photos!
There's one thing that I'm still having trouble with. For the life of me I cannot get a non-blurry photo of Spaceship Earth at night from across the lagoon (without a tripod). I can take good night photos of almost anything else, but I always get blurry shots of SSE. I always sit down on the ground and set the camera on the railing and hold it as steady as possible, but I just can't do it. It doesn't help that the bottom of my camera isn't straight, so by setting it on a railing it makes the photos slope down. http://lauramichelle.smugmug.com/photos/38752597-M.jpg Too bad I don't have a World Showcase Lagoon in my backyard to practice with.
FrumiousBoojum said:As for me, I just find I have a little more ease of control doing it through the shadows/highlights dialogue. I did a test to see about what it might look like and it is a bit preferable for me since the tree is so detailed to tone down the shadows. (Plus maxing out the colour correction a bit is a good quick way to give this photo the look of the colour Disneyland photos of the 50s.
Can I see the end result? I make a living using photoshop and I like to learn new tricks.
FrumiousBoojum
New Member
Laura22 said:
You meaning the end results with the shadow/highlight correction or the 50s print way that I was speaking of?
Here's the 50s print style that I was speaking of:
Here are the values I used in the advanced Shadow/Highlights dialogue:
Shadows:
Amount: 75%
Tonal Width: 58%
Radius: 54px
Highlights:
Amount: 62%
Tonal Width: 42%
Radius: 152px
Adjustments:
Color Correction: +100
Midtone Contrast: +20
Black Clip: 1%
White Clip: 0.01%
That'll give you an approximation of the 50s style magazine print with all the extreme, unnatural colours and the like. More photos and a bit of aging process and you should be just about ready to make a circa 1955 guide to DKA.
Now, as for creating a more natural look, everything but the Color Correction should be about fine (adjust to your liking). However, I do find the color to be a bit dull when this is done, so come colour adustments might be necessary (though I don't suggest using Color Correction for this case as it does produce a more extreme color even at the slightest adjustment than you'd probably like).
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
Ehhh Too much shadows brough out for my taste... i rarely go over 10% ..... I do very little post beyond levels, curves, unsharp mask & satuuration....
PhotoDave219
Well-Known Member
Laura22 said:
I forgot you had a polarizer on... You take it down two stops..... and thats the right exposure. Tho Canon's exposure is a little hot when compared to film....
Sunny f/16 rule.... at 100 is 1/100 at f/16 (125 to make life easier) ..... 250 @ 11... 500 @ 8. Throw on the polarizer, thats back down to about 125 at 8.... Ehhh im thinking too much.....
Dragonrider1227
Well-Known Member
Would you mind if I said you have a cute sister?
dolbyman said:and another one in total (my sister in front
